The Belgica & Beyond
amateur translations, scans, & assorted research by m.w.
actively under construction.
WRITTEN FROM THE BELGICA 1897-1899
CORRESPONDENCE
- coverage in the Belgian press, translated
- coverage in the British press
- coverage in the American press
- scientific lectures, translated
- list of Expedition publications a) Lecointe on Danco’s contributions
QUELQUES EXPÉDITIONS SUIVANTES
- de Gerlache & Charcot (the Français)
de Gerlache & the Duke of Orléans (the Belgica in the Arctic) - the failed Second Belgian Antarctic Expedition (Arctowski & Lecointe)
- the successful Second Belgian Antarctic Expedition (Gaston de Gerlache)
- the Royal Belgian Observatory
Georges Lecointe’s 20th Century
MARRIAGES & OTHER LIFE EVENTS
Lecointe Family Arctowski - de Gerlache
- Racovitza
- van Mirlo
- van Rysselberghe
ASSORTED BELGICA RESOURCES
- bibliography
- associated persons
- contemporary photographs
contact: packloafertranslations@gmail.com
Racovitza’s shipboard diary
He was always realistic, sometimes poetical, but never sentimental.
— DR. FREDERICK A. COOK, THROUGH THE FIRST ANTARCTIC NIGHT
As published in the 1998 compilation edited by Alexandru Marinescu, translated by m.w. from these scans. Sadly, almost none of the sketches or photographs Racovitza references in his journal were printed in this compilation.
This section will be updated as time permits, and will ideally be a searchable PDF once completed. Footnotes by Marinescu and m.w. will also be added for clarification re: Racovitza’s species (mis)identifications and creative spelling choices. For now, I’ve indicated any non-French terms he used with italics. Please contact me with any recommendations or corrections to scientific/locality-specific terminology.
Before reading, please be aware that Racovitza, as a naturalist, goes into detail about hunting, the taming of wild animals, and animal dissection throughout this diary. I would also like to note that Racovitza uses outdated and offensive terms like “Indian,” “savage,” and “negro” to describe some of the people he met in South America. He has recorded stories he was told about violence against indigenous communities, some of which are explicit in their descriptions of assault, murder, and violence against women and children. There is an extensive description of his visit to a mission which was largely inhabited by Selk’nam, Yaghan, and Kawésqar individuals and families: Arctowski, Cook, and Racovitza visited this mission with explicitly 19th-century anthropological goals in mind, hoping to “measure” and “document” these non-European people in the same way they intended to document the natural phenomena of the Antarctic. I am still working on a way to best present my footnotes on this incident and Racovitza’s (often incorrect and frankly offensive) terminology without impeding legibility on this site, but would recommend this documentary about the Kawésqar, this article about the Yaghan, and this article about the Selk’nam as starting points for those interested in accurate representation of these cultures.
JOURNAL
Monday, 6 September 1897
Calm sea, worked in the lab. Procellaria have followed us since the Bay of Biscay.
Tuesday, 7 September 1897
Calm sea, lab. Procellaria still following.
Wednesday, 8 September 1897
Dead calm, sailing under steam. For three days the Procellaria have kept to a number of 7. We hear them in the evenings, but it’s been impossible for me to see them in the dark. Pelagic fauna are abundant.
Thursday, 9 September 1897
Calm and hot. The Procellaria (pelagica, probably) still follow in a group of 7. They’d started to follow the boat but at first there were only 2. Around 5 PM a band of Thynnus pelamis or false skipjacks followed us for over an hour. The efforts of Warzée (and myself) to capture them remain fruitless.
Friday, 10 September 1897.
Calm and beautiful. The Procellaria left us this morning.
Saturday, 11 September 1897
We’re opposite Porto Santo. The birds are starting to show themselves. There’s a dozen Larus (argentatus?)
Sunday, 12 September 1897
In the Funchal Strand for a bit with magnificent calm. In the port, around 30 Larus. On the Mount, many sporting their Sunday best since 6:00 AM.
Monday, 13 September 1897
An excursion to the Grand Corral this morning. The evening at the church of Our-Lady-of-the-Mountain, from where we descended in the carrucio to Monte.
Tuesday, 14 September 1897
Lunch at the Bianchi house. Departure at noon. Carreras de Lobos, 50 Larus on a rock. At night, the sea is phosphorescent, but not milky.
Wednesday, 15 September 1897
One Larus argentatus at noon and two Procellaria. These birds did not follow us. Very phosphorescent sea.
Thursday, 16 September 1897
We’re in the region of trade winds. Saw a single bird passing by around 5:30. Phosphorescent sea (less so than yesterday).
Friday, 17 September 1897
Didn’t see any birds. Phosphorescent animals.
Saturday, 18 September 1897
Didn’t see any birds until 3:30 PM. At that moment some skipjacks or false skipjacks appeared close to the ship followed shortly by a band of white and gray birds that look like terns. The skipjacks or false skipjacks followed the ship until evening, making prodigious leaps towards the surface during which the birds would fling themselves towards the sea and dive. The skipjacks and birds must be following the same shoal of fish.
At one point, the whole band of skipjacks dove repeatedly into the same little space that I estimated was around 6m in diameter. This exercise lasted about 10 minutes. It was impossible for us to catch these fish on the hook.
Phosphorescent animals (but not enough to make a phosphorescent sea).
Sunday, 19 September 1897
Wind and stormy seas. Four Procellaria decided, in the afternoon, to follow the boat.
Danco saw 3 flying fish. Phosphorescent animals and among them a few very large ones (Jellyfish?)
Monday, 20 September 1897
Very calm sea. Danco alerted me to a huge bird. The four Procellaria are still following. One Cotyle riparia (Boien) or wall swallow comes to get caught on the boat it’s been following for a few hours.
Phosphorescent animals.
Tuesday, 21 September 1897
Around 3 AM a good number of flying fish. At 6 AM four brownish-red gulls flew alongside the ship. By 8 AM there are no more than 2 who disappear and reappear at midday. The Procellaria have disappeared.
The dorados have for some time been following the ship. A butterfly (Macrolepidoptera) flies above the rigging. Sadly, I could not make myself its master. 4 PM. Two sea bream and two little sharks follow the ship. We saw a bird (big gray-brown gull), probably the same species of gull that we saw this morning. Finally a huge school of fish (Dactylopterus).
8 PM. The dorados (Coryphaena hippuris) are still following the ship. Phosphorescent animals, among them a few big phosphorescent jellyfish. When the dorados swim in these waters, they leave behind a great luminous groove.
Wednesday, 22 September 1897
A young flying fish was found dead on the deck this morning. It’s a young Exocoetus volitants of 23 cm.
Today, a number of tuna and flying fish.
Noon. One bird, one macrolepidoptera butterfly, numerous schools of flying fish. The tuna have followed us for the whole day.
Evening. Heavy seas, but the phosphorescent animals are less numerous than yesterday.
Thursday, 23 September 1897
Found on the deck a dead Exocoetus volitans, all fresh. Its stomach contained debris of copepods, undetermined crustaceans, and one Halacarus. In terms of parasites I only found small distomes. Around evening, I was alerted to a band of birds passing in the distance. At night, bad seas, but in spite of that, numerous phosphorescent animals.
Friday, 24 September 1897
8 AM a large dark bird passed by in the distance. We are not very far from the islands of Cabo Verde. A few flying fish. In the evening, phosphorescent animals.
Saturday, 25 September 1897
Beautiful weather, calm sailing. Saw one Procellaria. Many tuna and a shark about 2 meters long. Numerous flying fish. In the evening, phosphorescent animals.
Sunday, 26 September 1897
8 AM flying fish steering easily in the wind. The breeze rises cool and fresh towards the evening. Two Procellaria following us. Phosphorescent animals.
Monday, 27 September 1897
3 PM. The commander points out a butterfly. A band of Delphinidae follow the boat for a while. These are the animals that are around two meters long, with elongated beaks like dolphins. The color is a dirty dark gray on the back and white on the belly. There are at least 10.
8 PM. The same band or another has reappeared. As it’s night, their wake is fully illuminated by plankton. They seem to swim in an incandescent sea. The Procellaria from yesterday have followed us all day long. The phosphorescence is more noticeable than yesterday’s. There are certainly more animals. This phosphorescence did not diminish during a squall of rain which fell over the boat.
Tuesday, 28 September 1897
8 AM. We find on deck two Exocetus volitans that fell last night. One band of long-beaked Delphinidae follow the ship for a while.
9 AM. With the help of a little flying fish as bait, we captured a true skipjack tuna (Thunnus pelamis). While dying, the fish was seized by a tremor that sent strange vibrations throughout the entire posterior half of its body. Its rectum contained an Echinorhynchus, its stomach a distome. In the general cavity I found a nematode.
The flesh is stringy and tough and is divided, once cooked, into hard, thin fibers, like a chamois. The Procellaria continue following. Very phosphorescent sea despite frequent rain.
Wednesday, 29 September 1897
Those Procellaria are still following. Phosphorescent animals of the usual frequency.
Thursday, 30 September 1897
The two Procellaria continue following. The phosphorescent animals have grown a bit more numerous.
The difference is much more noticeable than the ordinary state.
Friday, 1 October 1897
The two Procellaria continue following. Didn’t see any phosphorescent animals.
Saturday, 2 October 1897
This morning, 4 Procellaria. 11 AM 6 Procellaria. A swarm of Vellela spirans passed by with a length of around 500 m, I was not able to gauge the width, which must have also been considerable. There were around 1½ per square meter. In the evening, breeze and few phosphorescent animals.
Sunday, 3 October 1897
6 AM. A bird resembling a turtledove, surely not a seabird, flew around the boat. It followed us until 1 PM and settled itself on the rigging a number of times. The six Procellaria continue following. Few phosphorescent animals this evening.
Monday, 4 October 1897
The six Procellaria continue following. No phosphorescent animals this evening.
Tuesday, 5 October 1897
Around 5 PM, a big bird started following the boat. Is it a type of puffin? The wings are large, the flight is low to the water and reminds me of that of nocturnal birds. It’s dark on the back and white on the belly. It’s very possible that we’ve already encountered these birds in the wilds of Porto Santo and Madeira. The six Procellaria continue following. Flying fish. Few phosphorescent animals.
Wednesday, 6 October 1897
The six Procellaria continue following. Few phosphorescent animals. We passed the Equator at 10 this evening.
Thursday, 7 October 1897
4 PM. A band of Delphinidae who are all very large. I couldn’t see very well, except for the two largest, who presented (both of them) rounded dorsal fins, not pointed like the fins of the Delphinidae we’ve been seeing until now. The six Procellaria continued following us all day. Throughout the day we’ve seen flying fish, but only a few at a time. Few phosphorescent animals.
Friday, 8 October 1897
10 AM. Reports of a gannet [oceanic] (Sula?). Midi. We passed through a few Vellela spirans; right now, some flying fish. 6 PM. A band of Delphinidae follow the boat for a while. Phosphorescence.
Saturday, 9 October 1897
Two birds that the sailors called “crazy” were pointed out to me. The back is brown, the belly white, the size large. Nine Procellaria following today. No phosphorescent animals.
Sunday, 10 October 1897
Two large birds pass in the distance. The nine Procellaria continue following. No phosphorescent animals.
Monday, 11 October 1897
The nine Procellaria continue following. No phosphorescent animals.
Tuesday, 12 October 1897
A large dark bird, resembling a frigate, passed in the distance. The Procellaria (nine) continue following. From time to time, a few barely-there spots of luminescence along the flanks of the ship indicate a meager population of plankton.
Wednesday, 13 October 1897
The nine Procellaria continue following. No phosphorescent animals.
Thursday, 14 October 1897
One big bird not too far away. The Procellaria (9) continue following. No phosphorescent animals.
Friday, 15 October 1897
The Procellaria (9) continue following. No phosphorescent animals.
Saturday, 16 October 1897
Saw flying fish a handful of times. The Procellaria are now in a group of 12. I note that we haven’t seen a single other boat, so the Procellaria came to join us from a long way away. No phosphorescent animals.
Sunday, 17 October 1897
This morning a large band of birds was pointed out to me. In the afternoon we saw two big birds. Two magnificent Coryphaena followed us for a bit. The Procellaria (12) continue following all day. Few phosphorescent animals, among them a few jellyfish which form wide, round patches of luminescence in the wake of the ship.
Monday, 18 October 1897
The twelve Procellaria follow. Not many phosphorescent animals.
Tuesday, 19 October 1897
Two Coryphaena followed the boat for a while. The Procellaria followed all day. Few phosphorescent animals.
Wednesday, 20 October 1897
This morning, two big dark birds flew by at a distance. The Coryphaena are numerous today. The Procellaria continue following.
Thursday, 21 October 1897
8 AM. Many night moths were captured on board. Someone saw two large dark birds and one seagull. 10 AM. Fragments of algae pass by. Noon. I capture a huge hawk moth.
4 PM. I saw two large birds with white bellies and brown-black wings and backs. We’ve passed a few bands of salps. The Procellaria continue following. Phosphorescent sea.
Friday, 22 October 1897
8 AM. Opposite Cape Negro. Saw two large brown birds.
Entered Rio. In the bay, Sotalia brasiliensis and numerous birds (Phaeton aetherus). Slept on land, at the Grand Hotel.
Saturday, 23 October 1897
Rio. Visited the ambassador. Cook is on board.
Sunday, 24 October 1897
Rio. Lunch at the Darth home. Dinner in Tijuaca, at the Pêcher house.
Monday, 25 October 1897
Rio. Reception at the home of the President of the Republic, Don Prudente de Moraes. In the evening, a banquet offered by the Belgian colony.
Tuesday, 26 October 1897
Rio. Walked around the city.
Wednesday, 27 October 1897
Left for Punta Arenas on PSMC Oravia at 11 AM.
Thursday, 28 October 1897 through Friday, 29 October 1897
En route.
Saturday, 30 October 1897
Arrived in Montevideo at 1 PM, left for Punta Arenas at 6 PM.
Sunday, 31 October 1897
I made the acquaintance of F.P. Moreno and Dr. Rudolf Hauthal.
Monday, 1 November 1897 through Tuesday, 2 November 1897
En route.
Wednesday, 3 November 1897
Arrived in Punta Arenas at 3 PM. Installed at the Hôtel de France of Madame Euphrasie Dufour.
Thursday, 4 November 1897
Visited Punta Arenas and made various purchases.
Friday, 5 November 1897
Leaving with Moreno for the Cordillera and the Última Esperanza. 3 AM. Here we go… I bought a soft saddle in the country style for 25 pesos. My guide gave me a horse, he’ll have to catch up with me in a day. Participants: Dr. Moreno, his geologist, two péones (mollinos) and a guide, 15 horses. Hard to walk in a caravan. Horses not yet in the habit. Guide with enormous spurs.
We pass before a hippodrome. Region of mounds covered in beech forests, burned on the edge of the sea. All is also covered in a short grass. With the black (earth) road, an extraordinary resemblance to the Romanian countryside. We encountered a peasant at full gallop; horse breathing hard; someone told me that’s the allure of this country. Passed over a cliff of 10-15 m and by the sea. The edge of the sea is covered in gravel and sand from a nearby spit. Large stones completely covered in mussels. Numerous birds in rafts of kelp (especially Larus and ducks). Towards Punta there are some bridges.
Catalina Bay, sawmill, a bunch of houses. Huge band of ducks very close to the houses. Next we passed through to the interior, into the forests of stunted beech trees covered in lichen and Myzodendron. Then we climb up to a plateau of slight undulations that continues without forests all the way to the Cabeza del Mar hotel where we arrive at midnight. Hotel is tended by an Englishman; very well received, despite the late hour. Since noon no eating, so 12 hours. We eat a meal of cold roast meat, butter, bread, cheese, hot coffee and condensed milk, all the best. Am a bit ground down from having traveled so much, most of it at a trot.
A great number of large and small birds, in Europe we would not encounter so much as twenty. First of all, ducks in troops of more than 100 on every puddle, then two huge troops of Bernicla magellanica, handsome birds which seem black and white when they fly. Sparrowhawks, a falcon, a little black-and-yellow bird and a sort of sparrow very common in the area surrounding Punta. In the woods some sort of starling sings continually. By the seaside, ducks, cormorants, and even more ducks in huge flocks.
At night, the silence on the steppe is extraordinary. Only the aquatic birds on the edge of the swamp disturb it.
Saturday, 6 November 1897
Morning excursion to the lagoon. Found on the Fucus, which came up to the shore of the lagoon of Cabeza del Mar, transparent chetopodes, about 1 cm maximum. We also found them under the Echinocardium and in general on all of the objects thrown back onto the beach from the sandbank though that is dry at the moment. We saw vessels containing red blood and creamy masses in the anterior region. They have a cephalic lobe like the Cupritella. Found the spawning of Murex common on the beach. It’s attached to shells. Later — little excursion to the bank of the lagoon. After an excellent lunch that lasted 2 hours. Entered into a marsh. The grass formed tufts interspersed with shriveled bushes. On the pools of water, white swans and swans with black necks. The Bernicla graze peacefully by the edges of the beaches. Numerous bands of little black, yellow, and blue birds leap all around us. Falcons and sparrowhawks in the air.
4 PM. Passed the house of Mr. Saunders. Very lush country. Pretty valley in an arroyo, a bunch of bushes. Lagoons with big flocks of swans and Bernicla. Blackbirds in the bushes. Between the lagoons, dunes and elevated beaches with layers of gravel and sand cemented into horizontal plates.
The horses can’t walk any further. Slept in the campo at the base of a bush. Diner Argentinian style, with fire-roasted mutton chop. Splendid night. We set up our tent behind a bush. I made myself a bed from my horse blankets and my ponchos. Enveloped in my guanaco, I was much too hot to sleep.
Sunday, 7 November 1897
Squalls of rain and wind. We rose at 4:30 AM and at 5 we set off, guided by the man who lives at the post of Mr. Saunders, with whom we spent the night. The weather is now good all day. Lots of wind.
We passed a rapid, winding stream and delved into a verdant valley. The bushes are more frequent, the grass more abundant. The country forms hills, upon which isolated rocks, carried up by water, show that the streams must have once been much more important and climbed much higher. We passed a lot of marshes. An ostrich was seen running up a hill. Some stunted beeches on the summits of a few hills. We changed our guide to travel into the valley and visit the Braun house. We climbed a stripped hill and then descended into a valley after having passed by an estancia (Estancia Manzana). The plain stretches so far. We’re on the banks of Lago Blanco, a vast lagoon, very shallow, with milky water, very clayey. We passed the Pinto house, which has a hospicio (that is, a cabaret) at 11:30 AM. From there our route has followed the bank of the lagoon. We pass deep streams and swamps at every turn. The depth is often indicated solely by the corpse of a horse left behind. At first, the road followed the bank from a distance, then it moved closer, until it ran right along the edge. The area is flat, formed of horizontal layers of sand. Far off from the hills, some bushes limit the horizon on both sides of the lagoon. We see the Sierra covered in snow. The banks of the lagoon are covered in birds: Bernicla, 2 species of ducks, snipes, gulls, seagulls, flamingos, lapwings, blackbirds, falcons. We passed an isthmus that separates Lago Blanco from a smaller lagoon, a favorite spot for flamingos. At the edge of the road, 20 steps away, a fox is trying to break into a Bernicla egg. We stopped, we got down on the ground and we found a nest, sort of an excavation in the soil of around 30 cm in diameter, round, fairly shallow and wallpapered with gray feathers. There were 6 eggs that the fox had removed from the nest and started trying to break. We took these under the steady gaze of the fox sitting on his butt 15 steps away from us. He is very annoyed to see us doing this. M. Moreno told me they roll the eggs into a rock to break them. We encountered a second fox, just as tame, a little less long, and a guanaco cadaver. After we left the lagoon, we climbed up a little pampa for two hours and arrived at the Poivre and Bouvallot establishment where the two brothers Bouvallot received us with open arms, we ate marvelously and we slept in real beds in their enormous house.
NB. We came across a lot of corpses along the road, but none of them seemed to have been eaten by vultures. They were mainly sheep, but also horses (in the fords and marshes) and horned beasts.
Seeing a sheep on its side, unable to get up, Mr. Bouvallot explains to me that they aren’t sick, it’s just that the ewes, being pregnant and unshorn at the moment, lie down badly and can’t get themselves back up. We toured the fields for this and, at his place, picked up 20 or 30 sheep per day.
No epidemics, but scabies is rampant. The guanacos also have it and often spread it to the sheep.
Monday, 8 November 1897
Constant rain. Day off at Mr. Bouvallot’s house. It rained, all day long. Ardou finally arrived.
Tuesday, 9 November 1897
Good weather. The horses move forwards. At around 10 AM we left, Moreno, Hauthal, and one of the Bouvallot brothers, in a little convertible pulled by two horses. Ardou followed us on a red horse with cropped ears and a devilish attitude (or manios, as it’s said here). As soon as we left the courtyard, we were forced to cross a marsh at full gallop for fear of sinking, then we followed a road through the hilly pampas, with bouquets of fine, dry grasses and this year’s turf interspersed with last year’s tufts. This is generally the appearance of all the pampas in this region. We trot along cheerfully without worrying about potholes, gaps, or marshes. These grasses are replaced by grasses with sheep, cows, and horses. A guanaco watched us go by from about 150 m away; its color made it difficult to see amidst the yellow-red pasture (pasto). Some little bunches of trees (beeches) have appeared. We’ve been climbing very carefully, from here, at the summit of this hill, we have dominion over the whole countryside. To the east and the south, the same pastos and tufts of grass extend into infinity; to the north, the Rio Gallegos valley with its undulating, tree-covered hills and curious morros: Morro Chico, Morro Philipi, Morro Grande, Morro Gayo, all one after the other. These are mounds of 100-200 m with preformed edges of basalt. We can clearly see sharp basalt columns along many of these edges. Towards the west, tree-lined hills, then the cordilleras in the background, with their strange, choppy peaks all covered in snow. The Patagonian plateau runs from the east to the west of the Rio Gallego; in the distant west, it seems to drop off in a sharp cliff, while the eastern end is more of a gentle slope. We’re going to go down through the undulating pampas now. Near a pond, an ibis with an orange neck. Around 12 we’re in Morro Chico — at the foot of the cliff, 4 houses standing some distance apart. One of these is the estancia of Mendoza, a saloon, naturally. We took a carriage down the steep little slope along the banks of the Rio Gallego, which flows off into a narrow wooded valley a bit further on. (While we were sitting on the grass, we saw a carriage with two horses and three riders, including an Amazon, approaching; these turned out to be the Englishmen who hold the hacienda on the other coast of the Rio. Two cars meeting in the pampas!). The horses are there, we just have to get onto our mounts, when the new horse Ardou bought me dashes off: the saddle turns, he kicks and runs away at full gallop. We tried in vain to recapture him. He ran off with my saddle, leaving me nothing but a blanket and a stirrup. We wound up finding another Mendoza House, stayed for 75 pesos. During this time I searched for animals. I found, under the old trunks of beeches covered in dirt, animals. I found dark-colored orthoptera and a white worm under two different trunks. On the grass, a dark green iridescent beetle. There are numerous spiders living in the ground in holes exactly like those of the Lycosa in Romania. The butterflies resemble Pieris. Finally we set off; we traveled by fording the Rio, in water that reached the horses’ chests. The Rio is wide here, around 30 meters across and very fast. There’s a curious effect in fording it: one has the sensation of standing still. We continued along the road on the opposite coast, following the road that climbs up through the wooded hills with habitual pampas from time to time. The ibises are numerous in the ponds, the area is beautified by little beech forests, the first woods other than a few sparse trees that we’ve seen for some hectares. The countryside seems to be entirely undulating hills up to the moment we arrive at an enormous plain; this is an ancient lagoon, as shown by the location and the rare grasses with abundant crassulaceae that usually grow alongside current lagoons and have spread inwards as the waters receded. We traveled through a very bad swamp, I set my horse to a gallop and passed through it, the others tried to push through and were forced to get on foot, their horses having their hind legs pressed up to their stomachs. Then we met Mr. Molesworth, who we’re staying with, and accompanied him to his house. His house sits at the confluence of the Rio Gallego and the Rio Ruben, both of them having the same flow rate at this point. We crossed the rapid, but not so deep, Ruben just at the spot where it meets the Gallego and arrived at the house of Molesworth (brown, pointy beard, well built, rides a handsome white horse, speaks Spanish with a light accent, similar mannerisms to E. Marx, very advanced alcoholic, moments of absentmindedness, passes for a madman), who is the commissary of the pampas for the Argentinian government in Santa Cruz. He has a very pretty house built of wood and corrugated metal, with nice furniture, but it’s not kept well at all. He’s a moocher.
This evening I collected mosquitos attracted by a lamp, a thousand of them, and their cousins (plumbicornis).
Wednesday, 10 November 1897
Nice this morning, rain throughout the afternoon.
This morning I went hunting with Hauthal along the Rio Ruben — steep gravel banks like the Gallego but much lower (50 cm per 2 m) — many Bernicla and species of ducks. I killed two ducks that looked like European ducks, an old hen and a chick. I saw some much larger ducks flying by in groups of three or four, steel-blue with white wings. I killed a thrush, as it’s called in the country, and three loons who were sitting on a pond. Their eyes are red-crimson. On the same pond there were a lot of little ducks (like those drawn, several hundred) and many couples of Bernicla. Returned at 12 PM. After dinner, I prepared the three loons. Arrival of a messenger from the Commission on Argentina’s Borders who needs to accompany us.
Thursday, 11 November 1897
Left this morning at 8 AM. The valley of the Rio Ruben is to the north, we’re heading west. We travel through the usual pampas after following the bank of the rio for a while. Along this bank we found a granite block that clearly shows the marks of glacial erosion on one of its sides. Then the pampas continue on uniformly. We crossed a little tributary of the Rio Gallego, the tributary of the left shore. By about 11 AM we were on the banks of the Lago de los Morros, a beautiful expanse of water many km long that seems much deeper than any of the lagoons we’ve encountered so far. Its border is marked by a significant sandbank, rock fragments ranging in size from typical gravel to chunks of rocks up to 70 cm. The spit is no more than a meter wide and could very well be a frontal moraine — though we didn’t see any striations in the shingles. Behind the spit the terrain is much lower and swampier. We lunched at the post of Mr. Roux on an excellent roast that the shepherd had prepared. We drank some milk.
We set off again. After crossing a little rio by bridge, we’re back to the pampas where the toucou-toucou once wrought havoc but have since disappeared, apparently on account of the cattle. We finally arrived at the foot of the plateau. The appearance changed: the yellow color of the tufted pampas grasses is replaced by the dark green of crassulaceae. Here and there, along the flanks of the plateau, trees hang down, forming the typical bunches of beeches. The Morros (Morro Filippi and Morro [Domeyko]) are all against the plateau and look exactly like Morro Chico. The edges of the plateau are terraced, so that you climb a veritable staircase to arrive at the summit; each layer is formed from a flat hill, which are taller and taller as you go up. Like in the pampa, huge erratic slabs of rock can be seen here and there. Flowers are abundant, especially a species of Portulaca with a range of colors from white to rose pink to deep violet, red broom shrubs, white narcissuses, yellow ranunculaceae, but most of all the ball-shaped crassulaceae and another, dark yellow-red succulent with a little bush form the majority of the vegetation. After passing the first hill we went through a dried-out valley filled with smaller, also-dry valleys, as if the water disappeared a long time ago. Gravel appeared on the surface and the horrible toucou-toucou had been up to no good: the horses broke through to their knees. We came to the edge of a freshwater lagoon and camped in the woods at its shore. There were a few ducks, I killed one. On the Lago de Morros there were a myriad of herons and bitterns. We made a fire to cook some mutton — we took two sheep with us, strapped to a horse. On the summit of the plateau one sees a curious phenomenon. When covered with vegetation, the whole surface appears to be at one level, but where there are bare spots, they form holes up to 2 m in diameter. The gravel that sinks into the earth forms walls around each stone, a phenomenon that exactly matches one that takes place with the little stones that fall onto glaciers. We found a Bernicla nest containing 8 fresh eggs.
We had carne assado, a soup, with a pot of Morton jam and some coffee with milk; this constituted an excellent dinner. Magnificent night, we hear the sounds of geese and the much less pleasant cries of ibises as they call to each other all night long. This campsite is called Cabo del Monte.
Friday, 12 November 1897
At 5 AM I walked around the edge of the lake. Found under the rocks some planarians, pond snails, and oligochaetes. The horses are lost, we’re missing 10 and are stuck here. I went on an excursion. On the top of the plateau, in the woods that follow the line of flight along each side, I found a marsh where the round crassulaceae were sprouting. Wherever these are absent, the surface forms a hole and gravel appears. These plants therefore prevent the earth from being carried away by runoff. Walking is very difficult atop the plateau because of these ball-shaped plants, the mud, and the toucou-toucou. Alongside a little river that slices through the plateau, there are 3 enormous erratic slabs. I tried in vain to approach a guanaco who came to assess our campsite. He always stands just outside my reach and utters a high-pitched neigh from time to time.
Mr. Alvarez gave me a circulonide. I took a few Pieris and their caterpillars and a spider. The eggs of the Bernicla were quite good, they had an enormous yolk. Finally, someone found the horses, but it was too late to set off.
Saturday, 13 November 1897
Good weather. We set off at a very good hour (6 AM). All day, we breezed through a completely uninhabited region of the pampa. It’s a country of little flat hills, probably the remains of an ancient plateau that was cut up by some particularly sinuous rivers. The earth is not bare, there are a number of crests (partly covered over by grasses) and rounded pits of gravel, produced by the work of water running over barren land. Meager pastures here and there, crassulaceae generally brown and ball-shaped.
Land of the guanaco — numerous herds, just as many alone. Curious agglomerations of manure. Holes for rolling. Neighing. Usually approach at about 50 m, once at 20 m. They generally pass us. Ostrich trapped by dogs as it leaves the woods, the things they do to it. Eggs in the uterus. Dogs catch a guanaco, but no fox. Kill guanaco with a bullet, neck skin, agony, defense against dogs — front foot. Found two ostrich eggs, the Mephitis live in the slopes of the pits. Wild horses on the shores of the lagoon: how to catch them. Snail larva, branchiopods, daphnia, copepods, mollusks in just one of the three large rivers we crossed. Narcissuses, crassulaceae, ranunculaceae (carpeting the shoreline). Huge coleoptera in the holes where the guanaco roll. Lagoon with horses and a big lagoon near which we camp. Next to the first, Bernicla, ducks, flamingos, two species of snipes. On the other, black-necked swans. On the windiest coast, a spit building up from the well-washed steep edges.
Throughout the whole route we’ve been seeing the Cordilleras, especially the Towers of Pain, massive black jags, covered in snow but lacking glaciers. Before arriving at the little woods where we set up camp, we picked up 2 ostriches. In these little woods, countless ibises (bandurrias) in the trees produce an infernal noise.
NB 12 h. On an enormous erratic slab of earth, beneath a splinter about 60 cm in diameter, I found a plate of felted grass roots that had completely detached said splinter. In the slits of the rocks there were black orthopterans. In the felted roots, many diverse larvae.
Sunday, 14 November 1897
Magnificent weather. Moreno, Alvarez, Hauthal left to photograph Cerro Païne. Around noon we left to regroup with them. We spent about an hour traveling over the same pampas from yesterday. There were a few guanaco in the plain. We passed a lagoon that was literally covered in birds: ducks, swans, coscoroba swans, flamingos, etc. Suddenly we entered a completely different region. Yellow is replaced by green, flowering plants by spiny ones in balls, the carpet of flowers by short, green grass. This is the plain of the river of las Baguales, which, in the distance, slices through the mountain chain of the same name. To our left a little hill made of sandstone with a barren summit, uniform in shape. To our right the las Baguales chain, with its jagged, snow-covered meadows; in the background of Lago Sarmiento, the foot of Cerro Païne rises to its sharp pyramid peaks; darkened at its base by a sort of black rock, at its summit by the same (?) black rock that forms Ouales. We go along the river and soon enough we arrive at a view of another lake blocked by a moraine, followed by three others, the second of which is a marvelous half-circle and the fourth of which sticks to the mountain. We camped in the valley alongside the river we were following. I found an ostrich egg that’s being cooked in its shell.
Monday, 15 November 1897
Great weather, really hot. At 3 AM furious winds. We left at 6:30 AM, our route following the river, then climbing the moraine. Splendid view of the moraines and the Lago de las Mervellas. The rio makes enormous zigzags. We’ve crossed it more than once. Passed by the puesto de Rorch where Hauthal will stay, then we traveled down into a huge valley. A nice road that took us through a beautiful forest. Primitive works of art convey the route through the forest. Met a carriage pulled by 4 oxen. Continued through a valley bordered by mountains of sandstone (?) with flat, ruined peaks. Behind these, huge mountains covered in snow. Met 2 bizarre Germans — fell from one to the other. Traveled through a very beautiful forest. Curious mountains. Traversed pastures in hilly country. Arrived at Ultima Esperanza. Germans are drunk, Meyer and Dick. Few animals. No Bernicla.
Condors.
Tuesday, 16 November 1897
Camped on the shore of the canal near the houses. Very hot this morning. We’re waiting for Azopardo. In the harbor it’s only Chilean boats. Excursions into the surroundings. In the cliff carved by the stream that flows at the foot of the mound: our campo. Some Araneidae, yellow, brown, very small, on the rocks. One huge spider found at the same location in its plate-shaped nest. At the edge of the sea, Gammarus. On one rock 4 spider nests, plate-shaped, all 4 laid side by side. Inhabited by huge spiders monitoring their eggs. Young ones already hatched. Many plants on the banks of the canal, in the cliff and on the pasto. This afternoon we went to see a cave about an hour’s ride from the port. We traveled through a hilly country covered in clumps of trees and grasses. All of these clumps had suffered the effects of fire. Arrived at the cave which we found within a very large conglomerate cliff. Vast vaulted ceiling shrinking from the entrance towards the bottom. White interior, limestone dust and infiltrations. Few water infiltrations. A few stalactites in cylindrical shapes. White owl with a brown band atop its wings, lives in the cave which is 200-250 m deep. Entrance width 75 m, height 50 m. To the right, when entering, magnificent collapsed boulders. Seems like the Argentinian commission found an animal in its skeleton form covered in its skin and threw it away. The Chileans (sailors) have taken the largest part of its skin. One little fragment is in Moreno’s possession. Saw this morning a group of caterpillars on a shrub who all moved in the same direction every 20 seconds.
Wednesday, 17 November 1897
I went to explore the forest behind our campsite. In the holes made by tree rot, amongst the burnt-coffee-grind wood dust, I found some myriapods and 4 species of thysanura, including one violet species in enormous quantities, agglomerated; various coleoptera larvae, some coleoptera (1 green, 1 light yellow-brown, two dark brown, one lucanid), some acariformes. In the afternoon I went in a canoe with Ardou and Hauthal — we went back up one arm of the canal — obviously, it collapsed. Appearance of the layers very straight, almost vertical. On the closer isle, harvested coleopteras (curculionidae and tenebrionidae of the pampas). Under the rocks, beneath the high tide line, huge numbers of little dark green coleopteras. Beneath each tree’s bark, numerous spiders, including a few large ones.
Thursday, 18 November 1897
We’re still waiting on Azopardo. I went into the forest. Under the bark the same lucanid and some Chelifer. Found, beneath a tree, two bizarre circulionidae. Fairly cold weather.
Friday, 19 November 1897
Fished on board the Huemel. Lots of fish. It snowed last night in the mountains. A few squalls of rain. Cold. Around evening the weather got milder. We killed two black-necked swans from a little canoe that brings walkers to the end of a little cove. This evening we killed a Canis magellanicus that came too close to our campsite.
Saturday, 20 November 1897
The Azopardo did not arrive, I left Mr. Moreno with Alvarez, who leads his péon Baltazar and his mule. We left at 9:30 AM. First we crossed through a slightly hilly region that extends about 2 hours down the path until it reaches the foot of the high ridge we followed when traveling here. The earth is covered in the same alpine flowers we saw in the Baguales valleys. Huge bunches of tightly packed calafate give some character to the countryside. Upon arriving at the foot of the ridge, we went up, and from the end of the hills we could see that we’d followed the canal of Ultima Esperanza. Part of the canal’s panorama uncovered itself before our eyes. At the right were the ends of the sierras covered in snow, at our left (towards the South) were flat banks and a pretty little sierra. We saw the Azopardo in the canal. Even so, it was too late to turn back. We entered the forest. The route is marked across the valley by a clear stream flowing through the great beeches. It followed the ridge mentioned above. We walked along its southern flank just as we’d walked along its northern flank to come here. Two green parrots gave a concert of screams from the trees. The road was pretty, framed all over by bush-covered hills. Alpine flowers grew sparser, and the tufted grass made its appearance, which immediately gave the countryside a yellow color in lieu of the dark alpine green. The lagoons appear as a procession of aquatic birds. Bernicla becomes the most frequent. We went by a large lagoon, and from its shores I took a young lapwing that was trying to hide by laying flat against the earth (mimicry). The parents, to lure me away from their little ones, pretended to be injured and dropped right out of their nests.
We lunched around 1 PM on the rio Tinoterio [?], close to the former Meyer house.
Upon leaving we were in the pampas: yellow colors, tufted grass; reddish-brown crassulaceae scattered across the hills, nothing but high grass in the valleys. A few rare bushes here and there.
Around 5 PM we arrived at Meyer’s home where we had tea. Filled with mutton, we carried on into Turbio valley. Around 6 PM we stumbled into the Chilean Commission camping on a tributary of the Turbio — we’re camping with them. D’Onosso and Zota. Chilean saddles, spurs, chamber pots, transparent maps.
Sunday, 21 November 1897
We left around 7 AM, crossing a slightly hilly area with many lagoons full of birds. Around 9 AM we arrived at the lagoon de los Morros, at Roux’s puesto. Coffee with milk. Bushes disappearing more and more. We don’t really see flowers other than anemones, stellaria, narcissuses, and some rare large yellow flowers. From the forest onwards many more yellow violets, more calceolaria. We passed the Bertoletto house while they were trying to separate their animals and their neighbor’s animals within the corral. From there, we went through a bare pampa, then passed close to a lagoon with completely white water, and at 11:30 AM we were on the shore of the Gallego, at Molesworth’s house. We stayed there until 21:30. When the Argentine Commission arrived, we could go. We met the crews of the Commission (photo), 3 carros and 7 horses which one mounted and tied with a long rope. There were also some correos and a gaggle of horses both mounted and free. We went back up the Ruben and then, at a gallop, crossed first over a barren pampas, with lagoons and swamps, then through hills covered in bushes. We arrived at Gilles’ house, retraced the Gallego and spent the night in the Espinoza house at Morro Chico. This morro, like the others, is entirely basaltic. It’s a round, tabular mass presenting steep cliffs on all sides, with a base covered in fallen debris that gently slopes down and merges into the surrounding plain on one side and is framed on the other by the top of the bank of the Gallego. Columnar structures present, very typical. Around ⅔ there’s a cut that forms a little valley full of debris from the columns. From the top of the morro we have a magnificent view of the country. The morro is covered in flowers (narcissuses, calceolaria, anemones, stellaria) that are much rarer in the surrounding regions here, which contains only tufted pampas. Espinoza — his house and his tent. Omelet with mushrooms. Conversation around the fire. The tent and the bed. Dog and fleas.
Monday, 22 November 1897
Good weather, hot. We set off on the Commission’s horses. I left before 10 AM. Pampas, then hills with bushes. Many ibises. A road troop showed up at Gilles’ house. Meeting with the young Englishman, tea in the pampas. Conversation in Anglo-Spanish. I left at 1 PM. Valleys of the ancient Laguna Blanca, met Alban and his horses. Adventure of the hired laborer, the horse borrowed forcibly by the drunkard, the loss of the lasso and the overcoat.
Arrived at the Bouvallot house. We spent the day here. Flowers of the campo: red calceolaria, rhizomes, butterblume, dandelions, narcissuses. Stories from Molesworth. The arrest of two Chilean soldiers. Domestic Indians, faint-hearted approach. History of Indian hunting, distribution of young people. What they do as adults. Laziness and drunkenness. Menendez and his 200 armed men. Péones killed by Indians in the canales. Cows slaughtered outside Ultima Esperanza.
Tuesday, 23 November 1897
Left Bouvallot at 7 this morning. Crossing swampy pampas. Arrived at the house of the fat Cecilio Diaz. From there we went up the hill. Arrived at Arnaud’s house, talked of Poivre and his histories. His expeditions. His herd of mares attacked by savage “potros,” which was defended by the “potros” of his caravan. The house and its construction. Questions about the landscape. Alambros and trials. Left from there after lunch. Hail and multiple showers. Attitude from the animals during hail. We crossed pampas where the tufts faded more and more. We climbed up a hill. On the other side, a pleasant valley full of green grass: Rio [...], and opposite that a grand forest. We arrived at the house of Fabre. Madame Fabre. From there we crossed magnificent forests and then some marshy bushes. We arrived at the puesto of Rio Verde. Gathering of the farm laborers for the castration of the colts. The Chilean style and the Argentine style. Bargaining over horses. Left through a beautiful grassy plain. The Dutch are moving into Skyring Water. Boat lost at the entrance to the Fitz Roy canal. We arrived at the Rio Verde hotel first by following the driftwood-covered riverbanks, then the tops of the hills. The man on the ball. Store well-stocked with necessities. From there by the banks of the river, rolled-up trees, their bark gone, wood smooth, little branches and little roots all gone. Near the end of the canal we cut through the hills covered in pasto and bushes. We passed by an estancia, then came to the foot of the Sierra Palomares, which is made up of horizontal layers. Estancia of Zozo and Lagoon of Palomares. We arrived at an estancia managed by a Chilean, then crossed through a hilly green countryside to the home of Jules Roque who received us in charming fashion.
Wednesday, 24 November 1897
We spent the morning inspecting the horses at the estancia owned by the Chilean who looks after Alban’s horses. Way of trimming their hooves with a knife and a mallet. Black moorhens and their nests on the lagoon, nests made from aquatic plants. Off to hunt. Little lagoons in the woods. A duck with her little ones. Like her they hunt in the water and watch their backs. Returned to the Roque house. Shearing of the sheep, have to keep them seated the whole time. There’s a way of rolling the wool while fleecing the wool still on its head. The lion and the damage it did (30 lambs). Someone’s poisoning it. Left at 12:30. We first followed a [country] in the hills, then went through a magnificent tufted pampa, and finally we arrived on the shores of Otway Water. The whole windward edge is covered in sand. Numerous sand banks [are] exposed at low tide. There are switchbacks and hollows forming little lagoons. Many seabirds, especially oystercatchers and gulls. There’s evidently an ancient gulf packed into the sand. About 200-500 m off from the sandbank, we can actually see a gravel terrace with irregular boulders that marks the former seashore. The seashells are innumerable. Around George’s Point they’re all whole (predominantly Artemisia, followed by Mytilus and Patella), but further out they’ve been broken; the sea is not only stronger there, it’s whipped up by the prevailing winds. The dunes are made of sand and detritus from shells. This gives a good idea of the formation of the fossilized sandbanks and the direction of the prevailing winds when they’re dealing with a gulf or enclosed sea. We left the beaches and followed a road through the pastos of Mrs. Noguera. Next we reached the road from Cabeza del Mar to Punta that we took coming up here. A few supplementary observations: mussels line not only the biggest stones, but cover every bit of the gravel beaches to form a complete carpet all over. On the lagoon of Loredo Bay I could make out some flocks of Bernicla accompanied by some incredibly tiny Bernicla. Near Punta, in Catalina Bay, they’re building a place of pleasures. Got to Punta (Hôtel de France) at 7.
Thursday, 25 November 1897
The Belgica isn’t here. I’ve decided to leave for Port Famine. Preparations. Nice weather but it’s just started raining.
Friday, 26 November 1897
The Belgica still isn’t here. All night heavy seas to the south with strong winds and rain. The harbor isn’t doing so well under the storms and the sea’s slamming the beaches rather hard. Seems like it’s difficult to bring ships to anchor at the pier in such weather. We set off, Albon and me with a corgero. It rained all morning and kept raining until around 3:30 when we left. We left from Punta Arenas heading south along a narrow beach squeezed between the sea and a hill, the top of which was once covered with trees running down to the sea but has since been stripped and now only has burnt trees to show. There are many little houses along the length of the road. These are inhabited by the lumberjacks who cut the palos in the forest. The beach, as well as the sandbank, is formed of fine sand. We traveled along the Rio Legue Dura, then the length of the beach along the Rio Tres Brazos, a river formed by a delta of three mouths. I think I remember the ground getting more and more rocky from here, with gravel replacing the sand. Around 6:30 PM we arrived at Pampa Guyaruba, a little plain covered in grass and bushes.
The proprietor of this hacienda is a horse tamer by profession, which brings him 1 pound sterling per horse trained. On horseback, he wears untanned cowhide gaiters, which are folded just below the knee. He slaps his rebeche on these leather folds when leading the horses into the corral. Rudimentary construction. Bed. Side of the señora. The little soup of the laborers, the kitchen. He brings back a herd of horses to show to Alban. Along comes the potro stallion of a neighbor hoping to run off with the mares. Trapping it with a lasso, he conatins the Amphitryon, and finally wraps the cord around the trunk of a tree. He draws it close to the trunk, trying to put a lasso around its front legs, eventually managing to tie them together. Desperate resistance from the horse despite being pulled by its head and two feet. Finally, it’s down. He ties the right hind leg back with the others and the left to the lasso fastened around its neck. The horse is immobilized and its testicles are prominently displayed. While fastening it to the ground, the lasso around the neck is so tight that the jugular bulges out and the horse struggles to breathe. Seems as if sometimes they strangle them. Operation (with a dirty little knife). Lift the bottom of the sack, open the scrotum, stretch the epididymis and tear out the testicles to be eaten immediately by the waiting dogs. Slept on the floor in the little room just in front of the bedroom of our hosts, no door separating the two.
Saturday, 27 November 1897
It’s been raining all night through this morning. Set off at 10 AM. Followed a gravel beach with many rios and a high, wooded ridge. Arrived at Agua Toesora, a wide bay fanning out from a little pampa and a rio at the bottom. Government-owned Lazaret and a state hacienda managed by a Frenchman, L’Orme. Tales of the wild animals of the mountains. Formed huge hunts to get them. Selling mules at 50 pesos in the condition they found them. (Photo of the establishment). Left around 3 PM. Followed the beach where we saw beds of black schist-like rocks and outcroppings covered in mussels. High ridge covered in magnificent trees. At one point, I saw a white horse that disappeared like a flash of lightning. It was a wild herd. Spent a bit of time in the magnificent woods (photo of the rio). Stopped around 7 PM at an abandoned house before reaching Punta Carreras. Dined on 5 parakeets killed a little earlier. Fitted out the hut. From Punta to here, mussels cover every inch of the seaside. Ducks, dolphins, gulls, cormorants, gannets. Kelp barrier stretching 50-65 m away from the shore. Not much washes up onto the shore thanks to that barrier.
Sunday, 28 November 1897
Beautiful hot day. Left at 8 AM after we rose at 5:30. Walked along the shore until Punta Carreras, then cut inland to cross a little pampa where we found an abandoned settlement full of lime kilns. Mosquitos. Reached a kiln, crossed over the pampa, next came the woods, passed through the woods, two little bays and St. Anna Point and then we were in Port Famine. Beautiful bay, but nearly the entire floor is exposed at low tide. Went along the bottom of the bay. Went north to the summit, rocky, black schist-like rocks, shore full of rolled trees. The bottom is being replaced by muddy sand. Many little gai kenes on a little stream. Went up a little hill made of alluvium from the dunes. Reached a house inhabited by a Portuguese man who works with wood. We’re going with him to Rio San Juan. Followed a sandy beach, lots of rounded wood. In the channel we saw two whales. Rio San Juan is very large, on the banks there are many gai kenes (little ones) and black-necked swans. Went back through those gorgeous woods (clumps of bay trees). Cordillera-type vegetation (yellow violets, etc.). In the evening we went to see a beached shipwreck. Magnificent sunset. View of Mt. Sarmiento. Lots of artemisia all over the place. Nereis males releasing their sperm in puddles of water. The hull of the ship was covered in wide spirals of mussels, the genus Murex. Found some crabs.
Monday, 29 November 1897
Left around 8 AM. Rode our horses along the beach at low tide. Traveled through the woods next, then we stopped for a bit at the second bay after Santa Anna. Numerous mussels, limpets, huge fissurellidae, Murex, 3 species of chitons, sponges under the rocks. Borlasius and Spheroma. Found the mosquitos from Punta Carrera and went down the road we came by. Passed by the house we stayed at the day before yesterday and had lunch there. Somewhere near here is where the black schist-like rocks stop. Left around 4 PM. Followed a path crossing some little bush-covered pampas squeezed between the mountains and the beach. Big forests here and there. They look artificial due to the bushes and forests forming a straight line. We stopped at a hut in the forest near Agua Fresca. The nice Port Famine guy’s dog has followed us. I’m preparing the skin of an otter found along the way which the carranchos were tearing at.
Tuesday, 30 November 1897
We killed a woodpecker this morning. Beneath the rocks on the beach, Spheroma, some Gammarus and some planarians that moved similarly to leeches. It looks as if they have an anterior sucker and a subterminal sucker. I found some red eggs which are probably theirs attached to the rocks where they gather. Passed by Agua Fresca. Kelp everywhere from here on. In the harbors there are huge mats of it. There are also all of those big ducks here. Numerous gulls, too. Got to Punta around 4 PM. No Belgica.
Wednesday, 1 December 1897
Finally the Belgica arrived around 1 this afternoon. I was brought aboard in the port captain’s canoe after passing by P.S.S.C. Opressa, which had arrived from Europe at the same time.
Off we went to the Salesian college where we were well-received by the padres.
Meteorological observatory. Collections of ethnography and natural history. The toucou-toucou thrives. Indians who work at the church. Their mania for drawing. Fearful, savage attitudes.
Friday, 3 December 1897
Evening with Danco and Kürtze. Went to the German circle. Portraits of Bismarck, Moltke, Guillaume I & II. Came across a little Tierra del Fuego Indian with a bottle fetching beer for his patron. Intelligent figure, had learned German. “Bekomst du viel in der Schule?” asked Kürtze. “Jawohl,” replied the little Indian.
Saturday, 4 December 1897
We left, Arctowsky, Amundsen, Pina, Alban and his péon, for the coal mines. Went along the Rio de las Minas, close to the city, which cuts off in the hills formed by a yellow, clayey sand similar to loess. Went through some fields of rolled trees, then entered some countryside defined by tall, tree-covered hills framing each bank of the rio. The skinny banks of the rio are flats of coarse, rounded gravel similar to the spits and rocky areas encountered up north. Horrible pathway, crossed over the rio every few seconds. Gold prospectors. First, they remove the yellow layer formed by rocks fallen from the hills. Then they arrive at a layer of blackish sand mixed with gravel left by the rio, which is the gold-bearing layer. We climbed to the summit of the mountain on the right side of the river. This summit is formed by a layer of Ostrea and other shells. The dissolution of the limestone is very advanced. The Ostrea are very well conserved if a bit rotten, all the other shells have completely rotted. This layer sits atop and is concordantly stratified by coarse-grained, yellow sandstones, which are very tough and often appear divided into flat plaques perpendicular to the plane of stratification. A little further along we arrived at the mine, which is no longer in operation. The coal is only very low-quality lignite. A little beyond the mine we could see a cliff stratified as following:
Layer of Ostrea (?)
Crumbly, large-grained sandstone, mostly yellow with some spots of gray. We noticed within the sandstone 4 or 5 harder stripes, 40-50 cm thick, which separated the 3-5 m layers of the crumblier sandstone — 30 m in all.
White clay — 10 cm.
Lignite — 2 m.
White and gray marle in regular beds of 5-10 cm. Alternating.
Lignite — 2 m.
Gray marle — 1 m.
Lignite — 2 m.
The river, with its gravel bed. The layers seem to form a dome cut down the center by the river. Around the location of that cut, the lowest layers dip towards the west. Met Mr. de Saussure, the grandson of the great Saussure and the son of the Genevan zoologist. He’s a brewer here, formerly an engineer in the Argentine service. We went back to the colony in the evening.
Sunday, 5 December 1897
Aside from Lecointe, the whole wardroom set off for an excursion to Chabunco. Pina and Ladouche Jr. led us along. The rain surprised us and we showed up to Boys’ house completely soaked around 1 PM. Swiss construction. His old lady comes from a good family of Valparaiso (80,000 p. dowry). Companion of Steimann and Plate. Been in this country for 25 years. Fantastic storyteller.
The affair of the Cape Dungeness gold mine. The two Frenchmen who discovered the mine were spoiled by their government contacts, from whom they requested concessions and received nothing. Great wealth: 1 kg a day. They made good harvests by re-washing the remnants that had already been sifted and all the sand accumulating at the foot of the mata negra. The affair of the bottles the governor removed for cleanliness and then sold. Missionaries: missionaries for raising sheep. Bounty of 1 pound per civilized Indian. How they’d go out and bring back the same Indian several times to collect maximum bonuses. An affair regarding the land belonging to their establishment which was apportioned out by the government and then usurped by it. Rapaciousness and riches. Dawson Isle and the Rio Grande. Exploitation of the Indians. The Patagonians, their hunts, their numbers and their wealth a few years back. Massacred by the Argentine troops. History of cacique Mulato. His journey to Valparaiso. The complaints of the Indians who protest against the sale of their land.
Stayed the rest of the night in Chabunco, while my friends returned to Punta.
Monday, 6 December 1897
I returned from Cabunco around noon. This evening, I went to the house of two Polish women (Wanda and Louisa) with the two Ladouches, Pietro Grande, Gilles, and Danco. Slept there with Danco. They knew a few words of Romanian and told me there’s a Romanian Jew working as a carpenter in Tierra del Fuego.
Tuesday, 7 December 1897
Day of correspondence and lazing about. Around 5 PM I rode in a mule-drawn convertible with the two Polish ladies to the Three Points Hotel. Alban, his brother, and Danco joined us on horseback. Swiss hostess, chicken dinner. Horse ride this evening. Returned around 10 PM. Danco and I stayed with the Polish women.
Wednesday, 8 December 1897
This evening an old doctor of the Cooners line, a German who practices here, came to make our acquaintance. He wants to come on the expedition. There are also two more here who want to join as sailors. The Dr. says this, among other things. There are men who make their living off killing Indians. This, reportedly, makes them 1 pound a head. This reward is disguised in the following manner. They give 1 pound to anyone who brings in the bow and quiver of an Indian. This is called disarming the Indians, but in reality it’s their extermination, because an Indian does not relinquish his weapons unless he’s dead. It’s the Onas who are submitted to this treatment. Apparently, they’re very adept at throwing their arrows, with the same level of accuracy even when the wind is blowing. They know how to calculate the deviation the wind produces. Many Englishmen have been killed by them.
Thursday, 9 December 1897
Went searching for plants in the forest. The entire collection I brought back from traveling with Moreno was eaten by rats on board the Huemul. Went back to the rio where we made bricks. In the partially-burned forests all around, the red color of the prairies comes from Oxalis grasses. In the fontanas, large compounds including leaves resembling “scai” and a carpet of male and female liverworts actively fruiting.
In the afternoon I went to the Rio Leña Dura, walking for a long time down the monte in the path carved by oxen dragging trees up to the sawmills. The trees throughout this area show scars from flames and are often lying on the ground. The tree (beech) rots quite easily; you can see enormous ones with rotten hearts. It’s actually difficult to find solid ones. Once they’re hit by fire, they fall, because the thin roots rot when they’re dead and the larger roots stretch across horizontally rather than growing to any depth, the tree falls. Many trees are split along a spiral all the way from the roots to the main branches. The spiral is generally wide open, but you can also find where it happened twice throughout the tree’s growth. There are 5-8 splits on average. Other trunks have a split extending in a straight line, though I can’t figure out the reason for this difference. Fire causes the bark to fall off, so the trees affected by fire are totally bare. In a clearing at the center of the forest, amidst green grass studded with rocks of various sizes, a dwarf broom grows like a carpet, forming a lawn with white flowers. The look of the forests here is always the same: a picture of devastation. This evening at 11 PM the doctor, Arctowsky, and I embarked on the Toro of the Chilean navy, graciously loaned to us by the governor so we can visit Dawson Island.
Friday, 10 December 1897
At 1 AM, we took off. Description of the Toro. The fat captain and his constant thirst. I’m sleeping in the (dirty, oh so dirty) cabin of the mechanic. On the nightstand, big demijohn of wine. On the wardroom table, wine and hard liquor. The 1st mechanic is always drunk. When I climbed up to the bridge at 7 we were already in the channel separating Dawson Isle from Tierra del Fuego, and we’d already passed the tip. The island seems to be made up of rounded, tree-lined hills. The drawing opposite shows how there’s a chunk of bushes tucked amongst the trees. On the beach this must look like the shoreline along the Agua Fresca sea at Port Famine (see 29 Nov.). Possibly exceptionally dry soil causing that abrupt absence of trees.
We soon have a pretty, tree-lined bay in front of us, Willis Bay, where the priests first established themselves. Then we pass into Harris Bay, where you can immediately see the priests’ current establishment at the back of the bay. The bay is very deep, surrounded by forests on the bank, but free of trees towards the back, where a gently sloping prairie is dotted with the various buildings of the settlement. At 200 m out, it’s still very deep, around 19 fathoms, so we anchor very close to two little wooden jetties, one of which leads to the sawmill. A Chilean flag flies on a pole near the church, and, in a canoe steered by Indians, one of the priests comes to welcome us. Description of the settlement. We went into the woods to see the sawmill and the railway that carries the lumber. Lots of Indians work there, rolling the logs under the supervision of an employee. In the afternoon, we visited the nunnery and then measured the Indians.
Walk along the length of the shore. Gravel beach then an accumulation of black schist builds up further along the way. These appear to be the same black, cracked schists that form the point seen before arriving in Port Famine. These have also been straightened, but here they’re interlaced with strips of hard sandstone. Beds of kelp form a barrier running a few meters down the shoreline. Under the stones, found some algae (polysiphonia), a bunch of animals. Three species of chitons, some Fusus, keyhole limpets, large purple ribbon worms, a Neiris shaped like a parchment tube full of gravel, a red toubelle, a sea star, a fish that seemed like a young conger eel, some talorchestia, plate-like bryzozoans, a sipunculid worm. Gathered a few plants. At ground level, the bushy mounds are completely covered by a carpet of little ferns and a sort of phanerogam with rounded leaves, so that the roots form a thick jumble, a truly compact mass forming something almost like peat. With this, many tough grasses. In the forest the trees are covered with mosses and lichens. The soil is very humid, it’s a veritable bog. Good dinner this evening, sleeping with the Dr. and Arctowsky in a windowless room, covered up by Indian-made blankets. The Indians. There are today around 250 Indians at the mission, most of whom are Onas, a few Indians from the channel, and only 1 Patagonian. Before, there were many more Channel Indians, who lived in a constant state of misunderstanding with the Onas and even hunted them, but now that the others have the majority they dare not say anything.
These days, they come to the mission alone, called by the established families or driven by hunger. The priests were given their Indians by the Chilean government, who gathered up as many as they could and brought them to the colony for resettlement. There were also some living on Dawson Island at the time of the settlement’s construction.
The priests have built twenty little wooden houses to lodge them. There are big ones for the families who’ve been there a long time and little ones for the newer arrivals. They were given blankets and one cooking pot. Every evening they have their roast meat, rice and bread. The male and female children are educated at a school. For the time being, they’re separated from their parents (!) and kept at the tip of the island. The unmarried women live in dormitories under the surveillance of the nuns. Everyone is timid, embarrassed by their hands, constantly possessed by fear and shame. They don’t reply the first time you ask a question. They laugh by opening their mouths, but silently. Amongst themselves they’re much happier and more talkative. When they speak, and you listen from a distance, so that all you have is the sound of voices, you might think you’re hearing English spoken. The women have the same manner of being.
[The women’s] laughter is louder and pearlier. They’re talkative among themselves and are very prudish about the lower halves of their bodies.
Their language seems very rich, full of guttural sounds and nasally tche, aïk, oue, n. Here are some names of plants and animals:
The k is pronounced as kh, the w like oue. The Yaghans, who live around Ushuaia, have a language a little different from that of the Onas, seemingly more guttural, but they have enough words in common that they must come from a very close parent language.
The Alacalufes (Channel Indians) have a completely different language.
We were struck by the following fact: we found a decent number who resembled each other as much as brothers, and we also found several types of faces without any intermediary between them. Couldn’t that be explained by a common origin, all of them having been descendants of the same family?
The Indian men and women are very deliberate and stubborn, but they’re generally gentle; they rarely fight among the same race, but frequently against the Alacalufes, their sworn enemies.
Almost everyone has saliva at the corners of their lips. Almost everyone here is sick.
Tuberculosis and syphilis acquired hereditarily (children). They die around 40-45 and an older person is very rare.
In the houses here, they build a fire at the center, and they don’t use furniture apart from little woven baskets where they store their game, the bow, the sealskin quiver, their arrows, made with shafts of holly and tips of either glass or guanaco bones, and the pan and spoon they were given by the mission. When they are still newcomers, they don’t want to keep the doors, and refuse to enter the houses until they’ve been removed. After a time, all of them accept the door and make use of it. The newcomers don’t only use the houses. They build themselves a tolda, a semi-circular shelter made of wooden stakes stuck into the ground with tree branches, rags, and bits of leather placed between them. These shelters are no taller than a man sitting on the ground and serve mainly to block the wind from disturbing the fire kept at the center of the semi-circle. It’s around this fire that they squat, wrapped in their capes made of guanaco or fox pelts.
They make them work. The men cut trees and work at the sawmill, or as butchers, or maybe as campo or tannery workers. You can’t make them work by force. In each group, one civilized member serves as an example for how the others should work. It won’t suffice at all to simply give them commands. They’re slow and more or less lazy. Sometimes, they’ll go to sleep and refuse to work for an hour or two or even a whole day, then pick right up with the same work. There’s no point in forcing them along, they’ll just run away. Two young ones are bakers and have been running the whole operation by themselves. The women work under the surveillance of a nun, washing the wool, carding it, spinning it and weaving it. They get along with it very well and are tidy while they work, sitting on the floor along the length of the wall.
Their big passion is drawing. They draw well, we can immediately see what they’re trying to do. Ships, steamboats, horses are all very well drawn. They immediately recognize the objects being drawn in front of them.
When one dies, there’s an official mourner who cries and laments for 24 hours while the others make a sort of continual droning buzz. This ceremony is performed several times before the burial.
They hunt guanaco in groups. Already familiar with the typical path of the guanacos, they position themselves along the way in little dugouts made for this purpose. The beaters terrify the game for the hunters to kill with arrows or even grab with their bare hands as they run past. Both men and women have fat under their arms, their legs, and their backs, and their abdomens are very extensive and dangling. They must have vast intestinal capacities, which comes from the way they alternate between starvation and total satiation.
Almost all of them are sick with phthisis and syphilis. I couldn’t find out whether they arrived at the mission already sick or healthy. The syphilis must have come up the canal from the sealers.
The priest told me that one young man left the mission perfectly healthy and came back two months later with syphilis.
All are possessed by nostalgia for their free lives. They often leave the mission for the summer to live the savage life. They’ll build canoes and navigate the canals. In winter, they generally return out of hunger.
They said that whites are anthropophagi, that they eat their children. They might not be wrong. The priest says some English gold prospectors killed and ate an Indian to see what it was like.
Shepherd from Menendez wrings the neck of a child while tearing it from its mother and throws it against a wall. Next meeting much later the woman shoots him down with a blow from a revolver to the chest. Woman recovers at the Rio Grande mission. Shepherd meets her much later in the forest and hangs her from a tree, he shoots her with a revolver to the head and cuts off arms and legs. Indians learning this attack the shepherd who flees and they burn the station he inhabits. Government sends troops who kill dozens of Indians as retaliation.
The officers of the Azopardo were shooting at Indians for pleasure.
Farmers pay 1 pound sterling per Indian head.
The Indians often massacre the sheep, probably as retaliation. But if they eat the sheep of the farmers it’s natural. Before they could go on the gravel beaches and hunt on the seashore. Hunted in the montes by the farmers they were exhausted by hunger and killed the sheep. To conserve the meat they put it in the sea or the marshes, making a large supply, which thereby says to the farmers that they kill the sheep for pleasure.
[They] have an extreme skill with the bow. From thirty meters [away] a youth can hit a 10 cm square stake and make a 2 cm caliber hole in the beechwood and blow off a splinter. When shot a long distance, their arrows whistle. They hold the bow vertically and rest the arrow on the left hand. They aim while drawing the bow and very fast. The priests tell me that a strong shooter broke through the corrugated sheet metal of the house with an arrow from 200 m off.
– Once (5 or 6 years ago), no one was staying at the mission but one priest and one manual laborer. First all [the] Indians disappeared, then two days later, 6 men returned alone. Asked to eat, then came as three towards the priest and the worker. Gave each one a seal and in the moment when the two were distracted tried to place hands on them and slice their necks with a knife hidden under their skins. Priest escaped with light injuries, worker more injured, Indians absconded. A few days later, rescue. The 6 Indians returned but the scene did not start again.
Saturday, 11 December 1897
Measuring Indian men and making a vocabulary. Someone told me that when they lose a parent the females make longitudinal cuts along legs. Did a little horseback ride, officer, Arct. and me, towards the south. Very wooded in the north, scrubby hills in the south and many bogs. Left at 10:30 o’clock on the Toro. Drunk mechanic dead asleep. Filth and apathy.
Sunday, 12 December 1897
Arrive at 7. In the afternoon, Pick-nick given by Kurtze. Jews making a splash by jumping the horses. The Swiss who is a friend of the Grand Duke and drives his mother in Europe. The poseur doctor and his aide. The governor and his hideous wife. The drunk and brutish Germans. The little horse which must be flung to the ground to be reined and who is afterwards as sweet as a sheep. The women’s toilettes. Mr. Menendez and his ugly mug.
Monday, 13 December 1897
Goodbyes to the city. We embark at 10. My bed is so cluttered that I sleep outside. Splendid night, magnificent constellations. Goodbyes to 4 sailors staying on land.
Tuesday, 14 December 1897
Left at 1 in the morning. When I wake, we are far along in the canal. Bad weather. Continual rain and fog. We see nothing but high mountains with their frequently snowy peaks. Around noon we enter the Bay of Hope, little shallow but well-sheltered fjord. The form is rounded. To the west we find a little glacier and all around the bay rather short mountains, almost steep and almost entirely covered with forests. The mountains are formed by very hard rocks of a schistlike tendency in dark colors and by granite. Bernicla, steamer ducks and a few little birds in the woods. Under the rocks: fat nemertea, many spheroma, little asterias. No chitons. On the gravel, smooth and streaked molds, numerous limpets. At low tide, asterias and numerous big crabs. No success at fishing for fishes. In summary, fauna very uniform and overall poor. The water is almost brackish, clear during the ebb, yellow during the flow due to the water of this color which makes up the rios and the water that seeps up out of the full periphery of the basin. Remarkable forest. Canellos and beeches covered in mosses and ferns. Climbing brooms form the thallus ligatures of mosses and lichens, sort of a compact covering sometimes 60 m thick around the tree trunks. Water flows continuously from below. Higher up, lawn formed by a little broom with white flowers. Drosera uniflora and cactuses in the strips cleared of the forest. The whole mountain vast sponge which gathers water and filters it downwards. Found a spider in a dirt hole but the roof is formed of a continuous hemispheric web. Is this because it’s a female who had its cocoon? Rain.
Wednesday, 15 December 1897
On my request we stay here. Went to visit kelp beds at the entrance. On the fronds and stems, Capulus and rare bryozoa, a species of limpet also. This evening the sailors report sea stars and crabs gathering on the seafloor. Rain.
Thursday, 16 December 1897
Left in the rain at 6 o’clock. Until Sarmiento the mountains are in sharp points and covered in forests like in Hope Bay. The Sarmiento is covered in clouds. Magnificent glaciers. After Sarmiento, on each coast rounded mountains like they were granite, covered in mosses, in the valleys of the bases little forests. Bare summits with a few patches of snow. King Island is low, the continent (Clarence Island) is high, magnificent waterfall on the face of King Island. In the Cockburn Strait, round and low mountains, cracked and covered in mosses at the base. London Islet appears, at least to the east, to be formed of another rock, its peaks are sharper, the rock more black. Dropped anchor at Basquet Island. It hasn’t stopped raining.
Friday, December 17 1897
Left this morning at a very good hour because the mooring wasn’t good. This bay presents the same way as that which we will describe on Londonderry Island. Crossed Whale Boat Sound under pouring rain and entered into the O’Brien Island pass. All around short rounded mountains formed of gray granitoid rocks. Anchored around 12 o’clock in the bay of Londonderry Island. Glacial bay characteristic of these regions:
- Collapsed basin forms a lake under the glacier into which comes the runoff from the glacial stream and limited by the sharp edges.
- Sheepback rocks from the ancient extension of the glacier with lateral moraines.
- Bay closed by the frontal moraines.
- Frontal moraines form little elongated islands, accumulations of large blocks covered in beeches.
Saturday, 18 December 1897
The morning, excursion on land. Found in the stream, in the water, a little spider with many eggs. Under a coastal stone but under the sea a fat spider with her eggs. Oligochaetes in the waterfall moss. The afternoon at the shore. In the little bays, enormous Ulva. Under the rocks: Fissurella, chitons (4 spe.), stars (5 spe.), urchin (1), nemertea (1), polychaetes (3 spe.), etc. Very rich fauna. On the kelp: Spirorbis, Littorina, nemertea, Pecten, oysters (?), Patellidae, sea squirts composed like peduncles.
Numerous Phalacrocorax carunculatus. I killed one.
Left around 7 h. In the canal found a band of Spheniscus magellanicus. They jump like dolphins one after the other while diving. I killed one. We anchor around 8 ½ h in the fjord of a large glacier.
Sunday, 19 December 1897
Spent the morning doing various preparations. In the afternoon Danco and I took a canoe to the shore. Around the moraine the bottom is flat and covered in ulvae and other algaes (filamentous). The water is almost totally clear at the entrance of the moraine’s passage and the depths are putrid. Under the stones we found nothing but Gammarus and oligochaetes. The vegetation in the moraine is the same as that of the Punta Arenas plains, many grasses. Numerous birds in the bay, not very wild. Anas cristata very numerous, generally in pairs. [We] attack a family. The father gets killed first, the mother next without leaving the young. The mother pushes the little ones, encourages them and demonstrates how they must flee quickly. Micropterus cinereus, Cygnus nigricollis; Bernicla antarctica, the male white and the female black, coming over the rocky peaks and shouting out strident cries. On the short putrid muddy-sand beach, a little wingless insect. Seems very busy, probably searching for a spot to lay its eggs. The steep edges of the rocks don’t have any animals.
Monday, 20 December 1897
The morning went to the mountain on the right. As always in the hollows, Fagus, with soil, grasses and cactuses, [in the] humid spots Drosera, bell-shaped lichens, mosses. Numerous vegetal cones on the peaks of the rocks. Under the stones on top of the dry rocky surfaces, bronze coleoptera, 3 species of spiders, yellow miriapods, Asellus. The terrestrial animals are troglodytes because of the massive winds here. The plants have long underground stems and enormous roots to resist the wind. The characteristic of the vegetal and animal biology here is the resistance to wind and the adaptation to humidity.
The fjord where we dropped anchor has roughly the appearance of the sketch. Observations to add. The ice seas are fresh water even up to a distance of [...] from the entrance. The bottom is covered in mud and glacial silt all along the bay. In the icy sea the mud is bare, but in the bay it’s covered in algaes (ulvae and siphonous). We see the trails left by the ice blocks. In front of the 2nd bar is a group of erratic chunks. As the depth does not exceed 4 m [until] quite far from the 2nd bar the bigger ice blocks are anchored to the bottom and pushed from behind by the glacial flow. They are broken up by the thaw and the fragments are carried by the high tide until the canal. The ice is formed of grains of very small dimensions (8 cm maximum). The surrounding mountains are formed of granite with the exception of one little enclave of layered and very contoured gneiss.
We left around 5 o’clock. Anchored in a bay not marked on the map in front of Chair Island on the continent. Went ashore in the evening with the Cmdt., Lecointe, and Arctowski. The Cmdt. sculls the length of the shore. At the bottom strong current. Water admirably clear, numerous mussels, sandy bottom. The shores are very steep and on the rocks are affixed some very fat asterias. The Lithodes antarctica rest upon the rocks. I catch six on the hook. Splendid night.
Tuesday, 21 December 1897
Left at a very good hour. Until Romanche Bay the mountains presented the same way, which was rounded domes covered in mosses and formed of gray granite. From there the ridges taper, there are very steep ones, pyramidal, sharp blades. The rock is black in color. Some glaciers arriving at the edge of the sea. They’ve mostly developed in the granitic region. Very small lateral moraines and the flow must be very weak because there are very few ice blocks in the canal.
Bands of penguins on the approach to Ushuaia. The majority of this group is in the water, only the tops of their backs and the neck appear on the surface. Diving all together and jumping to dive. Another form is also very numerous. Very tiny birds fly clumsily over the surface when disturbed. [They] stand and swim in the manner of divers.
Some albatrosses also. We’ve had them constantly, since the Cockburn Channel, sometimes in great numbers. A stern passed also. At midnight [we] anchored in Ushuaia Bay after seeing some beautiful pastures at the foot of Mt. [...]
Magnificent line of forests which here are formed of beech trees.
Wednesday, 22 December 1897
The bay is very vast. To the north there are pampas between the littoral and the mountain. In the east the forest extends out to the sea and creates a very well-defined border. The town is situated in this last region. Afternoon descended to land. The gubernacion, its bureaucratic installation, the governor’s secretary and the chief of police. Visit to the establishment. The post office, the sawmill, the barracks (German soldier came here as a pharmacist at first, forced to enlist due to lack of food), the school (intuitive board of education), the mistress of the school. The church. Cabarets with billiards. The British and their store, their factory for canning mussels, crabs, and fish. The Yaghans, their puny stature, bad teeth, too-short lips. Dressed and civilized. Friendly with authorities. Visited prisons. Only thieves and recidivists. Flora resembles the Cordilleras. Very beautiful vegetables and fruiting trees. Enormous Kjokenmöddings all over the littoral.
Thursday, 23 December 1897
Climbed up the mountain behind the coal shop in the afternoon. We’d left from Ushuaia at a good hour. Magnificent view before the entrance of the bay. The canal seems closed on all sides by sharp-tipped mountains. Beautiful Peak Français white and jagged. The mountain I climbed is almost vertical. It’s formed of extremely fine layers of gneiss with intercalations of quartzite layers. Fat black spider in a shallow hole with her black sac like [I] have already seen. Pale brown-red spider with poorly wrapped sac, the eggs distinctly visible. The web is in the form of a truncated pyramid with a rectangular base. Beneath the huge pad of felted moss and roots I found one large cicindelle and 3 fat earthworms. A little black ant is very common under the rocks. It doesn’t build a nest on the exterior but digs tunnels under the rocks. The eggs are mainly amassed under the rocks, possibly because this was the moment when they exposed them to the heat. In one nest, I found two large ants and winged as well as wingless workers. There were also yellow insect larvae and little white miriapods. Under the rocks in the humid valley through which cuts a little sream, I found numerous gray-brown Orchestes and some other larger yellowish ones alongside little bronzed-green coleoptera. In this valley, many grasses and sedges. On the flanks of the mountain a continual tapestry of Lomeria (fern). There are also bushes of Berberis and Fagus antarctica covered in Myzodendron. The flora looks exactly like that of the Ultima Esperanza canal and the Tuidi and Kork Corderillas.
Thursday, 24 December 1897
I went to the beach around 9½ h. The sea was very low. In the area surrounding the little coal gulf a big bank of smooth mollusks with some streaks. Entirely at the height of the particulate limpet water, lower the novules and chitons and the little mollusks. In the sand formed by debris from granite and mollusk shells:
— Very large Terabella with wrinkled interior tube, exterior debris of mollusks and gneiss. In this tube a commensal, either a little Polynoe (rare), or a fat Polynoidae with a body only half covered with elytra. Neiris in wrinkled tubes, either green (small) or large flesh-colored. Moldonian (?) with crenelated funnel. Eunice. Gephyrians — large Nepthis.
In the very muddy little beach covered in ulvae where the mouth of a little river is found, very large Arenicola with usual excrement making U shaped tubes. Terabella like higher up. On the ulvae are attached large glassy masses, up to a diameter of 7 cm. They probably contain the Terabella embryos. Between the packets of mussels and underneath [them], spheroma, little dirty-dark-green crabs. Under the stones many more species of sponges. All the groups of rocks are covered in chalky algae and calcareous tubeworms (threaded). Many nematodes in the muddy sand on the beach. Evening Christmas party. Extinguished a fire set by Arctowski. Distribution of gifts. Norwegian and French conversations.
Friday, 25 December 1897
Went this afternoon to the left shore of the Lapatia River and onto the corresponding bank of the fjord. All is covered in the silt from the river. Mytilus and limpets with ulvae. Magnificent forest. Two species of Myzodendron, very many on the Fagus antarctica. Ball-shaped crassulaceae that I haven’t seen since the pampas. Bluets etc. The forest is completely dry like in the north of Europe. Saw penguins, albatrosses and sterns with black heads in the fjord. They were pursuing a school of fish. The penguins jumped to dive and reemerged with gullets crammed with fish, beaks half-open. The sterns fall towards the sea like falcons. Their wings skim the water.
Saturday, 26 December 1897
[We] fish with the locals in a small muddy cove. We got more than 200 robalos and some little fish which were gobies. Lunch with the Italian who has a sawmill and with the former earthworker. The Fagliarinis. Afternoon went back up the Lapatia River. Arriving near the mansion [saw] a little lagoon and then a very large lake. Incontestably, the whole valley is a valley of collapsed gneiss. A slight difference in levels has created a fjord within a rosary of lagoons and little rivers. The waters of the big lake have lowered. On the shore fine round gneiss gravel. Tiny, admirably distinguished terraces demonstrate the upper limit of the crests of swell waves at the different levels of the lake. The plants don’t start until 4 or 5 m from the edge, out of reach of the gravel rolling with the waves. Marvelous forest on the shores. Cytharia darwinii or a very close but unidentified neighbor to those encountered in Morro Chico. These ones are smaller, the sides a little harder [and] a little [more] flat (a) than those (b) from Morro Chico for example. These ones also have pure white crenellations, the others, a little yellowish. These sprout from bulges in the branches, the others directly on the branches without forming any bulge. Acidium, very many on the Berberis on the big leaves. Many young beeches and young trees with tough leaves. In the rotten trunks, many larva, a longhorn beetle coming out of a hole. A stag beetle, many coleoptera. Myriapods under the bark and the moss covering and even in the rotten wood, [and] many species of oligochaetes. Under the bark [are] mosses shaped like white plumes and white corpuscles sitting in groups. The tree cover is roughly the same as that in the granitic region, only much less thick and less humid. Returned with the 2 types and salmons.
Sunday, 27 December 1897
In the afternoon I went to the dirt behind the coal shop. There were fish in the little tiny stream which spills into the sea. On one part of its course the stream loses itself under the clutter of grass roots and flows beneath the earth. These fish when they’re very young are all but transparent, with only black and yellow chromatophores, [as] adults they are greenish when they contract their chromatophores (on the sand), very dirty brown when they dilate them (bottom of the mud), the changes are made with very great speed. Two among them had parasites, with white-colored oval bodies in their muscles, [which grow] up to two millimeters, but [they] start off much smaller. Curious little lagoons: one of them 2 m in diameter. Are ovular and 60 cm deep, are dug in part in the jumble of roots. The bottom is lower than the level of the highest tide and this bottom contains saltwater. Under the stones one finds green Nereis and some mussels. Above there is fresh water also covered in freshwater algaes while the bottom is covered in ulvae. The roots stop at the high tide level. The Fagus antarctica are covered in Myzodendron (2 spe.), some Cytharia, and very many scabs. All the gallicolar insects must be accommodated by the only trees that exist in this land.
Tuesday, 28 December 1897
I stay on board to work on the conservation of the animals. Around the evening the governor arrives with his little steamboat.
Wednesday, 29 December 1897
I stayed on board until 4 o’clock. Went then to land at the coal shop. I took the algae from the little lagoons (v. 27 Dec.) which are full of a little amphipod [which can] swim very nimbly in a straight line with its body extended (n. 97). The sea was there but not at its highest level. The waters of the lagoons were brackish and did not present rippling waves when agitated. Around 7 PM the sea was very high, it had [widely] rippling waves and the bottom contained saltwater. Under the schist fragments covering the seashore in a spot where the waves arrived I found some limpets resembling Capulus, some spheroma, some Orchestes and two coleoptera. Found under a tuft of Myzodendron a rhynchota-type Coleoptera with a bizarre shape.
Thursday, 30 December 1897
Went around 10 o’clock to the sawmill for lunch on the grass. Harvested filamentous and horsetail algaes from the river. Musical farewell to the Bursatti family and the Argentinian. [We] left around 5 PM under violent winds. Met a ship from the English mission that we took in tow. Violent hurricane. Almost threw the boat onto a rock, no longer leading. The gusts: [it’s] like seeing a wall advancing over the water. Little swirling tornadoes that stir up white dust. At one point the whole northern view was hidden by a wall of gritty white water. Great puff of violently cutting air which lasted only a few minutes then flat calm. Dropped anchor around 9 PM. Captain of the port visited us.
Friday, 31 December 1897
The Larus surround us. A flock of Cygnus nigricollis swim in our waters. Visit of the shepherd of the mission and the holy family. Nobody went ashore. We made water.
Saturday, 1 January 1898
Left at noon. The Antarctic Fairy charged me with distributing the following gifts to the comrades: Commander: 6 sailors who never go on shore leave and never ask for anything; Lecointe: a doll from Antwerp; Amundsen: a baby bottle of saft; Melaerts: a rubber; Danco: a toupée; Arctowsky: a cork; the Dr.: an advertisement for his photo process printed on one of the photo plates. The canal leaving Ushuaia is bordered by mountains that get smaller and smaller. In the place of the black rocks forming sharp stops appears a yellow rock that forms tabular mountains. The edge of the sea is generally deforested and covered in pastures (?). Bands of penguins and albatrosses. Met two Megaptera and tried following them for photographs. They dive regularly, sometimes with their whole body at once, other times they prick their heads up front and then one sees the tail make a protuberance on the surface. One of them leapt entirely out of the water at one point. We first see the unique jet of steam and then we hear a bellowing like that of an open steam tube, or rather a bull. Next appears the dorsal fin and then part of the back. When they sound (that is to say, when they show their tails) they stay down a long time before returning. But they also swim at the water’s edge and so one may follow their route by the large bands of calm between the waves. I also saw them lying on their sides, showing off their pectoral fins, white-spotted and with their edges covered in coronules. At this moment the mouth was open. They were met and also moved in concert and dove and reappeared all at the same time. Later we saw one of the Megaptera again and the edges of the fin and the tail were coated in coronules. Night arrived, we didn’t find the entrance to the bay or the Bridges house and around 10 PM we were beached in the kelp. The boat sits a little to the right. We’re at high tide.
Sunday, 2 January 1898
Around 2 in the morning Lecointe, Danco and I went to see if the low sea was rising. Many birds on the kelp. We arrived close to the coast and it seemed to us that the sea was rising. We returned. The boat was leaning very strongly to starboard. We gave it a crutch. I went back to land with Danco to see how the sea was rising. We approached over a beach made of a continuous carpet of gravel and mussels. We gathered some seashells and a plate formed from the calcified posterior vertebra of a whale. The weather stayed good, only a slight swell. It was around 6 o’clock in the morning. The boat was still leaning. How admirable was the kelp forest which surrounded us. The fronds were covered in a lawn of hydrozoans in the middle of which were mimic crabs. Their bodies were covered in bristles that resembled the hydrozoans in form and color and it was very difficult to notice them. Yellow-greenish amberjacks swim briskly from one kelp frond to the other.
Many small fish, keyhole and true limpets (transparent), little white or gray sea stars on the fronds. Close to the surface of the water, myriads of little long and thin amphipods swim with agility. With one trunk of kelp we brought back an enormous red-vermillion colony of star tunicates, heart-shaped, measuring 43 cm at their largest extension. Around eight o’clock the people from Bridges arrived with Bridges the son, the Dr. and the Indians. We unloaded the coal then around noon they left. Tempest around 2 o’clock. The ship heeled, it leaned to port, the sea descended. The billows surged. The portside crutch broke cleanly. Situation [was] growing desperate when all of a sudden we left. We spent the night in Puerto Toro.
Monday, 3 January 1898
The deck looks like it’s been pillaged. We rose very late nobody having closed their eyes for the last 48 hours. Around 12 we left with good weather. We picked up our two dinghies. The Dr. and the Bridges son stayed ashore. We finally anchored in the evening at Corbert Harbor across from the Bridges house. Visited the latter. Its layout. The younger Bridges recounted that the Onas were very nice. As a child he ran with them in the woods. Never had a disagreement. He also knows that the northern farmers pay 1 livre per Indian scalp.
They have a big boat in the port. Did a tour of it this evening with Danco and Arctowski. I killed a Larus dominicus.
Tuesday, 4 January 1898
Went to the beach. The coast is covered in very coarse gravel, probably originating from the moraines or maybe the Patagonian gravel. Below the sandbank, gravel covered in limpets, between the gravel sand containing Arenicola, Neiris, Glyceris. Under the big stones, very many little black asterians, some Spheroma, very small crabs, several sea anemones with red tentacles. Some Coleoptera beneath the stones. Further down the kelp begins. I collected several flies.
NB: 3 January. Amundsen brought me a kelp trunk fished up at Puerto Toro. Contained: little crabs, red Flustra, bryozoans encrusted in white, very small pink sea cucumber, very many Terebellae, Polynoe, red ophiuroids, a little yellow Lamellibranchiata resembling a Mytilus, numerous violet nemerteans, calcified sponges.
Wednesday, 5 January 1898
I went this morning into the forest and along the beach to gather plants. The Aecidium was very developed on the Berberis. I also found on the leaves there (or on a neighboring mushroom) an herbaceous plant similar in form to a butterblumen. The mushroom emits little craters containing its spores onto the inferior face of the leaves. The spores are orange. On the superior face, a yellow patch indicates the presence of the parasite. The Drimys branches frequently presented magnificent examples of heliotropism. The shoots are generally birthed in 3s, opposite but at the same level. When the sun only comes to one side, all three shoots turn to that same side. One branch on the ground had all the ground-side shoots pointing upwards and moreover the adventitious shoots were being born on the superior face of the branch.
Yesterday evening, the Cdt, Lecointe, Arctowski, the Dr. and I went to visit Bridges. The house and its cave (!), store on the ground floor. English petit bourgeois furnishings. Mr. Bridges, his white hair, his red face, in bonnet and apron. A tall twig of a daughter, practically a half-wit. Bridges fancies himself a botanist and philologist. He claims that there are two species of Fagus with deciduous leaves: australis and aromatica, this latter growing in isolation, not in forests, with an aromatic odor when you crush the leaves. He also claims that there are many species of Aecidium. Showed us his garden, well kept, with European flowers and various vegetables. He said he’s made a dictionary of the Yaghan language which counts 30,000 words. I found the dolax (Azorella gummifera) there that I’d been noting as crassulaceae in balls. It was quite abundant in the moraines guarding the bay. Around 4 o’clock Bridges, his daughter and the Argentinians came from Ushuaia coming to visit us.
A powerful breath, sort of a dull huff, drew our attention. It was a seal who’d shown its head 20 m from the boat. It dove then reappeared, forming a big swirl. I fired a shot from the rifle which made it jump into the air. It reappeared further off, second shot. Then we saw it very far away rising straight up until its waist was above the water two times and then disappeared. Bridges sang us some Yaghan songs. They had one simple vocal, musical verse indefinitely repeated.
Thursday, 6 January 1898
We left this morning to anchor at the edge of the bay to make water, but as it was not possible to do this easily we left for Staten Island. Left around 4 o’clock. Tailwind. Tierra del Fuego and Picton Island look like one plateau bordered by high cliffs at the edge of the sea. On one boulder an enormous quantity of Phalacrocorax carunculatus and one Otaria jubata who raced off at our approach. Numerous albatrosses and Ossifraga. In the night, violent storm. I fought all night to save the jars. The Belgica rolls abominably.
Friday, 7 January 1898
We are within view of Staten Island. The storm continues interspersed with violent gusts. Close to Port Saint Jean we went along the coast, which is vertical, very high and seems altogether inhospitable. Many reefs. Close to the entrance there were two rookeries of Otaria jubata. The pair are shaped by a rocky platform 5-6 m above sea level on which there seemed to be a hundred seals. Very few were dark brown, the majority were yellowish, or rather dirty blond. Several adults, their heads high, watched us pass. Around 5 o’clock we entered the port. A little semaphore greeting. The port is a full-fledged fjord with vertical walls, very deep. Received a visit from the Argentinian subprefect and doctor. Jean who laughed and Jean who cried when he heard music. Told us that the Otaria jubata hold the north of the island, the Arctocephalus falclandicus the south and the caves. The whole time we had continuous flurries which only lasted several minutes.
Saturday, 8 January 1898
Went on land. All the cliffs which border the fjord are wooded. For the base it is probably mostly Fagus betuloides which grows almost exclusively. The antarctica is very rare and on one of these bushes found three rhynchotans. At the edge of the sea, Apium, Conepis with large leaves and white flowers, bushes of white Conepis and bushes of brownish-red fruits. Several grasses. White orchid and the plant with white flowers and leathery leaves which smelled so good in Baberton and smell like nothing here. I also found the rushes the Indians weave to be very widespread. Under a stone I found two enormous spiders. The sea threw a lot of seaweed up from its depths — Macrocystis. In this manner I also saw the magnificent Durvillea for the first time. The Lessonia were growing all over the bottom of the fjord. All the stones around the half-tide height were covered in magnificent calcified algae. The evening we went along the length of the shores, the commander sculling. I didn’t see anything in the way of animals. Upon returning, Van Reisselbergh gave me some little Podophthalma crustaceans which had followed him in the form of a strip, larger than one m, thickness of 20 cm, and as long as 70 or 80 cm, on the surface of the sea. I do not know whether they are young ones or adults but in either case they resemble Galathea, with a meaty red color, but very pale, produced by chromatophores in this color placed all over the body. Their transparency allows [one] to see their intestines and stomach, [which are] brown, or at least made of a brown material.
Sunday, 9 January 1898
Someone sent a dinghy to search for us this morning. We lunched at the station. Residence of the governor. The captain’s wife, blonde, very cheerful chef, the negro cook. After lunch visited the settlement. The prison, the barracks, the sailors’ lodging. Morgan, the American foreman and his Ona wife who has twice saved his life. Good layout of the meteorological service. Visited the lighthouse lit by petrol. During the storm on January 2nd the waves reached a height of around 45 m and swept away the terrestrial vegetation covering the rocks at that height. At the foot of the column of the lighthouse, on the side of the high sea, the rocks at low tide are covered in magnificent Durvillea. These seaweeds are very solidly clamped to the rocks by a very large base shaped like a hemispheric skullcap, upon which are arranged 2, 3, or 4 trunks. The surface of the leaves is quite clean, the animals mostly affix themselves to the Macrocystis and Lessonia. In the cracks in the rocks were numerous Actinia with crimson tentacles and some others with brown tentacles. We went to visit the Otaria jubata rookery. It was situated close to the entrance of the San Juan fjord. On a rocky platform sloping towards the sea slept around 150 sea lions sprawled in all sorts of positions. At our approach, several males roared, one yellow female with two black pups leapt into the water. Around the rookery several older males slept in isolation. We approached with difficulty despite the very calm weather but a heavy swell is always felt at this spot. After a slight panic from the troop (some jumped into the water) who retreated in front of us, there was a slight stop. The large males were turned to our side with their respective females behind. They roared by opening their jaws and lifting their heads in the air. We photographed them then we went to meet them. All fled in a scramble, rolling topsy-turvy into the sea. They went gliding down the slopes bristling with rocks and fell like masses into the water. After a deep dive, they reappeared at the surface and all sat there, their heads turned toward us, the males roaring violently, the females more softly. There were none left on the rock except the harem of one fat male who had decided not to leave the rocks on account of two pups who were still too young to go to sea. We tried to hunt the older ones; the females, with the exception of the mother, left the rock. The male was poisitioned in front, screaming from an open maw, and the mother barked close by him. From time to time the male turned to the female and took the end of her snout between his teeth, pretending to bite her. Is this how he ends a consolation or is this a manner of saying “shut up, you annoy me”? When the Dr. tried to approach the little ones, who were bleating in despair, the old male advanced, roaring. Finally I passed a pebble to the Dr. who threw it at the old male. He left for the sea followed by his spouse. The Dr. advanced toward the pup. The father pretended to climb up, he roared; several males began to demonstrate their desire to attack us. At last the pup, dragged by a strap around the neck, was safely at the bottom of the dinghy. The father and the mother immediately climbed back up the rock. The latter searched for her pup then shot into the sea, clutching the second one in her mouth. The little prisoner fought like the devil, bleating and biting everything that fell into his teeth. We left the rookery, several sea lions began to climb back up their rock. One group followed us for some time, then, rounding the coast, entered the bay. We returned to shore where the governor, the Dr. and the captain (an exile who seems to have killed a comrade with a shot from a revolver) had to have dinner with us. Music, rifle shooting. After the guests’ departure we discussed whether or not we must go to Buenos Aires before Melbourne. The question remains unresolved. The little sea lion, who had been sleeping, woke up and wailed. It was that the band of sea lions was in the bay. They were on the hunt and the creatures continually made a plaintive sound resembling the cries of newborn cats.
Observations on the sea lions. The coloration is very variable, but even so, one can say that in general:
- The adult males are darker than the females. They are light brown, the very elderly have lots of very light hairs that make them seem gray, especially in the mane.
- The females and the young of both sexes of more than a year are light yellow-brown, dirty blond. Many are spotted with darker brown.
- The newborns are wholly black except on their bellies and their snouts where they tend towards brown.
Monday, 10 January 1898
I stayed to prepare the little sea lion. Killed via strangulation with great difficulty. Was horribly spiteful. Its rectal temperature was 37.2°. This evening an enormous band of those little crustaceans from the day before yesterday came to the surface. They swam backwards, all in the same direction, climbing from the bottom to the surface by an oblique trajectory. They liked arriving at the surface where they produced a little swirl like that which is produced by falling rain. Some were displaying spots (parasites?). Between them swam some little fish, red ascidians compounded into a ball, and some Craspedota jellyfish. Today I heard the sea lions with their catlike cries again. They were hunting in the bay.
Tuesday, 11 January 1898
Stayed on board all day to prepare and embalm the animals. This evening some big Craspedota passed along the side of the ship. They are completely colorless, with 4 strips of pure white genitals and a very large number of thin tentacles on the rim.
Wednesday, 12 January 1898
Stayed on board. Killed a cormorant that approached the boat. It’s the old Phalacrocorax carunculatus, it doesn’t have a crest. The one killed before was without a doubt another species. It is very difficult to distinguish between the cormorants because they are, without a doubt, extremely variable in the color of their beaks, the bare parts of their feet and the bands found on their wings and backs.
Thursday, 13 January 1898
The cormorant killed yesterday had parasitic mites on the bald parts of its head. Spent the day on board. Visited the subprefect and his negro cook.
Friday, 14 January 1898
Left this morning at 8 AM, with fairly heavy seas but good weather. Remarkable distribution of trees along the sides of the mountains. They create the effect of regular oblique bands of dead wood separated by lakes of greenery. The explanation for this fact is, I believe, this. The forest is made almost exclusively of Fagus betuloides. This tree doesn’t grow leaves except at its crown, which is very large due to growing as a parasol. Except for the crown which is almost one surface, the rest of the tree is bare. The crystalline shales of the [hillside] are arranged in pleated or straightened layers. The bands of bare wood correspond with the outermost edges of the outcroppings, because the layer on top is always at a higher level than the underlying one, and this creates a view where the row of trees along the outcropping is visible in its totality, which therefore allows one to see their bare parts. One must also note that certain groups of the trees, higher up than the others, stay upright while dying and leave patches of dry wood on the grassy expanse, but [in these cases] one sees irregular patches and not regulated lines. At the exit of the fjord the exulans albatrosses appeared and followed us.
Saturday, 15 January 1898
Rough seas but good weather. The albatrosses are following us. There are two old ones with white plumage on their heads and backs and two young ones with brown patches in the same areas. Their flight is magnificent. They glide atop the waves without flapping their wings, always keeping the same distance from the water. Only the lightest twitch of a wing from time to time. The head is kept taut in front, the feet to the rear, also they often fly with their bodies at an oblique angle. They fly very well with and against the wind, seemingly without changing their speed. This evening we got 3 with a fish hook baited with seal meat. They threw themselves greedily onto the lure, fighting it while letting out deep, muffled grunts. Brought on board, they stand on their paws with difficulty, don’t even try to fly and bite whenever one tries to touch them. When they are close to each other they stab their beaks about and try to bite each other while making growling noises that sound like something gurgling, or better yet like the noise made by gas bubbling violently underwater. They also let out cries that resemble the cries of young cats, but only vaguely. Their feces are all white and they cast them out violently by lifting their tails.
Sunday, 16 January 1898
We took two more [albatrosses] this morning of which one was an adult. The ones from yesterday evening are all squatting on the hatch. As soon as they come close to one another they fight. Opened two albatrosses this afternoon. It was very curious to see as the thoracic and abdominal cavity were empty compared to those inside the other birds and yet the animals were fat, their skin being clad in a layer of fat several millimeters thick.
Today I saw nothing but one young albatross, towards the evening, and a Daption capensis at the same time.
Monday, 17 January 1898
Very heavy seas. Saw one Diomedea exulans, [and] a smaller one with a black beak (melanophrys). Around 10 AM one little bird sat itself on the ship’s rail. It was one of those little birds so common in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, it was black with a yellow-brown back and belly (Centrites niger?). Around 1 o’clock a band of delphinideans [performed] acrobatics around the boat. They were around 1.50 m, longitudinally striped with thick black and white bands. With extreme agility, they jumped over a meter out of the water, turning in the water and going around the boat even though the latter was going more than 7 knots. I think they were Lagenorhynchus cruciger. The Diomedea stayed alert; besides the cries of anger, they produced another noise with their beaks that resembled the sound made when one snaps with wet fingers. We let them go in the end. This evening someone pointed a large Delphinidae out to me. Since yesterday, some little birds resembling swallows have been following the boat; they’re generally colored brown with a white transverse stripe on the tail.
Tuesday, 18 January 1898
Since Staten Island we have had a very strong current from the west. The swallows are very numerous, a dozen today. Around noon I saw one Diomedea melanophrys again. Around evening a tern (?) also followed the boat.
Wednesday, 19 January 1898
This morning there were a dozen swallows and a dozen gray terns (?) with a much darker band of brown on their wings here. They’re probably Sterna vittata, but I haven’t been able to see whether they have the red feet. Around evening one Diomedea and one all black pigeon-sized bird (Magnopaeus aequinoctialis?). The first iceberg passed at 16 miles off the coast.
Thursday, 20 January 1898
[We] are in view of Shetland. We surveyed in the morning and as the sea was strong we put down the oil bags. We were immediately surrounded by the following birds who ate the dripping oil:
About twenty Cape pigeons (Daption) flying very close to the boat. They settle down on the sea with ease, swim briskly with their little black paws and chase each other while uttering sharp cries. When the crest billows up, they hop slightly above it. To take off they’re helped by their paws slapping the water.
Around thirty swallows indulged themselves in the same exercise after the oil puddles. They did not like to sit atop the crests and preferred to hold themselves with their wings open and feet outstretched to touch the water.
2 big brown birds, maybe Megalestris antarctica.
The Magnopaeus who followed us yesterday.
About forty terns.
In the afternoon some albatrosses also arrived, of which one had a completely white back, with brown patches only on the wings: on the dorsal side and at the tips of the ventral side. All the rest were pure white. The beaks were pink. Some large, red-beaked penguins (Pygoscelis papua) swam by with marvelous speed and agility. They jump in the water like dolphins. Underwater they swim with a surprising swiftness, apparently helped only by their wings, their feet seemingly kept extended at all times. The Shetlands looked like highlands with snowless peaks above valleys covered in an enormous white blanket. A second iceberg was seen.
Friday, 21 January 1898
In the morning at 8 o’clock little icebergs of various forms but not tableyish. Around half past eight o’clock we entered these breakers close to land. We touched it for a moment. The rocks were tabular and level with the water. Someone changed our direction and we went towards the north and towards the east passing between big, curiously divided icebergs. Often there were very tall pillars. Every iceberg had a gash all around it produced by the sea beating it on all sides. Some Pygoscelis and one Daption played around the ship. A seal was signaled. The fog has lasted since this morning. A big iceberg of more than 40 m passed portside. It had taken the form of a sphinx, and on one of its arms sat a penguin. We passed close to the barrier of rocks and reefs that surrounds Snow Island. These breakers, some of which were quite tall, are formed of a black rock which could surely be mistaken for basalt, but with a [magnifying glass] one can see a very pronounced schistosity. They seem devoid of any vegetation. In the afternoon the fog lifted a bit allowing a view of Snow Island which appeared [to be] low, shaped like a cupola and entirely covered in ice. A sort of fjord has formed between the two sides composed of high icy cliffs. Many penguins followed us. A big black bird and an albatross were observed. Around the evening another black bird, some terns and the Daptions. The penguins continue to follow us.
Saturday, 22 January 1898
Violent storm. On lone bird, big and black, too far to be determined. Intense fog. Alternating rain and snow. Death of Wiencke. Around 6 we arrived in view of some low land or island completely covered in snow. Only the black reefs along its edge show that it’s truly land. One cliff was covered in millions of penguins, a rock further along too. The cliff, the masses of ice surrounding it were red, probably the guano of these animals, guano which can be smelled from as far away as where we were on the boat. One flock of Daption and one big black bird around the boat. A large cetacean dove close to the boat. It had a very tall dorsal fin. The figure gives a schematic layout of the island which served as our shelter. All over the ice coming from the sea forms very high cliffs fissurated by long crevasses. The belt of black rocks is in front.
Sunday, 23 January 1898
We spent the whole night in the shelter of the island. The storm lowered around morning, we ran towards the south. Met an iceberg which had on one side a very clean succession of layers of snow which had formed an ice sheet covering the islands from whence it came. The layers were lost around the inferior region where the snow was transforming into glacial ice. Around here the general color of icebergs is very pale, almost white, the same in the excavated parts. I did note however one huge ice block that was dark blue. Without the slightest doubt, all the icebergs seen until now came from the cap of snow covering the islands. Two things of note on this iceberg:
- The gray, parallel, undulating stripes covering the surface of (a), that is to say the surface of the ice sheet itself, as one can be convinced following the form and appearance of the fragment. These are probably the lines of the outcroppings of the different layers of snow.
- The holes (b) which are located in the excavated region, quite deep and containing debris of yellow-reddish ice.
Monday, 24 January 1898
Good weather. We passed in front of a tabular iceberg which, around the middle of its height, distinctly showed a brown-black layer roughly 5-10 cm thick that separated the masses of ice into a superior and inferior layer. I think that this could say there were two periods of snow accumulation interrupted by a period without snow, where the layer of guano mixed with clay (twd lower lvl). We (Danco, Amundsen, Arctowski, the Dr.) went ashore on a little island. Almost entirely uncovered, bit of snow on top. Formed of hard granitic rocks with a stratified appearance.
Obs.: Snow. Impurities presenting on the surface:
- Due to the disaggregation of rocks which supplied sand and clay.
- Due to green algae which gave it, even from afar, a frog green color.
- Guano, mostly from penguins. Red, white, and yellow; mostly red.
Penguins with fat black beaks and strips on their cheeks. White Larus flying around underneath. One Phalacrocorax carunulatus perched there. Swallows flying around. A dozen leopards sleeping or just sprawling on the rocks. They didn’t move when we approached. There was one fat female. I gave her my paw and sat down beside her. She lifted her hindquarters, huffed fearfully while opening and closing her nostrils, but didn’t budge. One leopard arrived out of the sea and came up very close to look at us. There were three laying down in the water at our feet. They rolled over, scratched their backs with their front paws, and did not seem bothered by our presence. But as we saw the female mentioned above was very emotional and her heart pounded strongly.
All had yellow spots on gray or brown bases with yellow around their lips, but these colors varied widely in intensity and number of spots. One pup was dark gray with very many spots. These spots [were] on its back, the belly was uniformly brown or dirty gray. Their bodies were covered in scars. Around the high tide mark there were pools of seawater, often brackish because of the thawing runoff. These puddles were fitted out with algaes (siphonous, green, and brown algae). I killed a swallow which is Procellaria thethys. In the afternoon we continued along the lands seated to the east of Hugues Gulf. First the island with 2 hummocks, opposite an islet with a rookery of the cheek-stripe penguins. Another rookery further ashore. We’ve started to see real glaciers with actual glacial ice, granulated and dark blue. On one side we saw the same thing as on the iceberg from this morning: 2 black bands between the masses of ice, about one-twentieth of a m thick. The top layer clearly shows the successive layers of snow from each time it has snowed. Some balaenopterans appear in succession (3+1+2+3) close to the edge. The drawing (1) shows how when the animal leaves the water, one can see the fin and the blowhole orifice. When they dive one can see the ventral face of the tail; [there was] one with an entirely black one, another with 2 large white spots, a third all white. Saw the two penguin rookeries again, the one on the coast and the other on an island. Saw some leopards on the little glaciers, and one flock of cormorants (?), 3 o’clock. Saw some birds that looked like pigeons with black beaks. Were these Prion turtur? The land always keeps the same appearance. High mountains of snow-covered black rocks presenting veritable glaciers in the valleys. Sheer cliffs of ice slant towards the sea, where they detach either as tabular glaciers, given as typical for the Antarctic, or as glaciers of varied forms, [which are actually] the most frequent. At night we crossed a channel which cuts the so-called Palmer Land into two. Around 11:30 while rounding an island (because “Palmer’s Land” is nothing more than a group of little islands), the boat stopped and we disembarked, me, Arctowski, and 3 sailors. We went towards a frontal moraine formed of large round, smooth boulders composed of gray granitoid rocks and red rocks that had a porphyritic appearance, but replete with bubbles, veritable scoria. On the pebbles we surprised one Pygoscelis and one “king penguin.” The latter was sleeping lying down on its stomach, its head reentering its shoulders. No limpets on the rock. The two birds who were brought on board despite their cries and their stabbing beaks are still together and do not want to mingle with the two Pygoscelis already on board.
Tuesday, 25 January 1898
[We] disembarked at a good time on a little island almost entirely covered in snow. Birds seen: “Braun möwe” (Megalestris), flying around us the whole time, settling deliberately on the bare rocks. Ossifraga passed, skimming the waves. Pygoscelis with straps: on the rock there was one, many in the water. White-gray (?) gulls, numerous, alighting on the snow and on the island’s summit. Cormorants passing in a band. Tern with a black head skimming the waves. Numerous gray-blue terns flying on the waves. The bare rocks are covered, in the sheltered spots, in a sort of liverwort. In the big fissures, guano mixed with clay and sand forms a soil covering when they are very humid or full of water fused with filamentous algae. In the pools, under the filaments of guano or under the little pebbles, larvae of a little apteran. Limpet shells have accumulated within the slits, they were rolling and stopped there without a doubt. Under the shells, sitting on the non-submerged clay, thousands of Podurella, the same as the ones from yesterday. On the rocks and on the dry stones, the little apterans, males and females (fatter), often in copulation. Quite curiously, I saw two males coupling with the same female. The position of the males was the same in relation to the female. In the slits full of water I also frequently saw living rafts of Podurella with some Aptera wandering around on top. The edges of the snowy masses against the rocks are greenish from the accumulation of green algae. The spot where I found all of these things was situated around 30 m above sea level. On the ice blocks were 4 or 5 sea leopards. The Dr. showed me about twenty elsewhere. In the afternoon we were surrounded by Daption. The current [around the boat] carried water, a bunch of feathers that had fallen around us, and some rafts of red algae. The ice cliff shows very clearly that a large, perfectly typical moraine exists. We disembarked anew close to the northern point of Palmer’s Land in a little bay bordered by sheer cliffs that had a moraine at its depths formed by huge round, rolled boulders of syenite with several rare samples of a red volcanic rock and one block which could very well be made of gneiss. On the moraine were lounging 17 marine leopards. Their favorite position is lying on their flanks or their bellies, the body and head elongated. I touch one on its tail, he folds himself in half. Another opens his jaws for biting. They make a sort of clucking. I was able to see again that the pups are darker than the adults and show their yellow spots better than the adults, whose color varies from isabelliney to brown gray or yellow blond. Often the spots are actually entirely absent from the back and sides of the body. These animals are very difficult to see even up close on the rocks, and yet it is not a matter of mimicry here, because on land they have no enemies and are often on the ice where they can be seen from a distance. They frequently scratch their backs with their flippers, which demonstrates that they have parasites. In the water [with] their hair pasted they have a totally different appearance from on land and the color seems clearer than when the coat is dry. They have enormous difficulty moving themselves on land, especially the elders with their triple chins and immense paunches. They jump and do a vermiform movement, but the wriggles are vertical, like the way one depicts a sea serpent. In terms of birds I saw: many Larus dominicanus, brown Larus (Megalestris) — two or three, terns 10, carunculatus cormorants 1, Daption 10, albatrosses (?), two, one white and one brown (young - old), some penguins (Pygoscelis), many (10) white Larus (?), swallows (3). Many red algae passed by in spherical floats. Arctowski gave me some little marine littorians. [We] returned around 5 o’clock. Magnificent sunset. [We] met a big balaenopteran. Today I killed: 2 cormorants, 1 white Larus, 1 tern, 2 brown Larus. Calm and misty towards the evening. 2 of the captured penguins (Pygoscelis) ended up escaping through the scuppers.
Wednesday, 26 January 1898
We (Danco, Lecointe, and me) disembarked on the islet where we disembarked for the first time, from 9 AM until 5 o’clock in the evening. The islet is entirely formed of a volcanic gray rock with quartzose veins and geodes of a crystalline yellow mineral in elongated prisms. Towards the south the island is covered in snow, towards the north there’s no snow. In the north we found a white mound which serves as a cormorant rookery. A high cliff borders the plateau summit of a second monticule which extends from the north to the south and the east of the island. See here the description of the plants and animals which live there:
A) At low tide.
- At the highest level we found a dark green ulvoid algae.
- Lower down, a filamentous algae which completely covered the surfaces of the rocks. The limit between these two algae was very clear. The second zone sits approximately 50 m from the low tide mark above it.
- A bit above the low tide level begin calcareous pink algaes and a red algae which certainly represents the laminaria here.
B) In the low rocks we found.
- A sort of brown-red coating [that] resembled mushrooms but could be of a mineral nature.
- A green freshwater algae (?), since we mostly found it in the rivulets and the runoff water, [it] resembled ulvae like fronds. It was completely desiccated in the dry spots.
- A shriveled little gray lichen.
- Streaks and patches of green, often considerable (1 hectare). Sometimes on the surface, most often where the edge of the snow meets the rock because there’s always fonts of runoff there and the rock retains heat.
- Patches of hot pink (penguin guano!)
- A fleshy yellow-green lichen growing all over the ledges jutting out in big plaques.
- A fleshy yellow-green lichen (maybe the same) in the very humid spots, the [above] is found only in dry spots. The difference in coloration might be due to a predominance of green algae ([which] likes the humidity) in the lichen association.
- An orange lichen in plates, very little thickness, descending even lower as a plane. Very dry.
- A gray-green lichen with a black top, branches (reindeer lichen) forming large continuous carpets. The branches were very thin.
- A gray-green lichen with foliaceous branches forming tufts in the slits in the rocks. The two dry spots.
- Lichen in a very pale yellow crust, not very widespread, dry spots.
- Lichen encrusted in gray. Dry spots.
- Lichen encrusted in black. Dry spots. These last two could maybe be the same or even their dead forms.
- In the very humid, clay-filled slits, green mosses forming balls on the plateau.
- Lichen encrusted in gray.
- Leafy green algae with an ulvaceus appearance, totally dry, distributed along the surface following the cracks.
Birds
- Penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica), several of them on the rocks below like the other time. They can scratch their heads very well with their hind paws. Also jump very well; up and down, both feet together, using their wings as balancers. Stretching and lowering their wings to the rear, elongating the neck upwards and yawning widely. Whenever another one approaches their spot, they give a sort of hiss, a “ch, ch, ch,” bristle up their neck feathers, and swing their necks from right to left. They came up alongside us, curious to see what we were doing.
- Pseudo-albatrosses all over the surrounding seas in large flocks.
- Brown Larus, looming on the rocks or flying around us.
- Larus dominicanus, very numerous and noisy, around us and the island. All nesting high up in the cliff face, flat nests made of feathers, algae, mosses, all cemented by the youngs’ droppings and surrounded by mollusks. The young are already large, with brown feathers and not much down. They can’t fly yet, but defend themselves by biting. Their color harmonizes very well with the rocks. Their parents flew around us crying shrilly. The nests are situated on little rocky platforms. At the bottom I saw a Larus of this species with a broken wing. Two little ones per nest.
- Cormorants came only to sit for a while on a predetermined spot on the rocks already completely covered in their white droppings.
- Chionis alba, very familiar, eating the filamentous algaes from the second zone which they graze by holding their beaks to the side as if scraping the rocks. Nesting in small caves, the nest is placed at the entrance, but the young can take refuge in the back of the miniature excavation. 2 little ones per nest, gray brown. The parents, male and female, do not leave them, but take them out of reach whenever we appear.
- Tern with a black head. Must also nest here on the cliff, but I couldn’t see their nests. These are the very small birds, very courageous, who valiantly attack all the other birds who seem to fear them; even the brown Larus flees in front of them.
While descending, I found a leopard laying on its side; it was a female. I shot an expanding bullet behind its ear, which exited from above the eye. The animal died without budging from its spot, struck down, but from the two orifices came thumb-sized jets of blood which went on without stopping for 5 minutes. The quantity of blood was truly terrifying. Length 2 m 30. Dental formula 2/2+1/1+5/5d+2+1/+5/5g. Coloration light brown, blond on the edges, yellow spots hardly apparent. Pink gullet, black vagina. Very thick layer of lard. Stomach contained debris from 7 fish 40 cm long with two species of nematode parasites which literally carpeted the stomach. Unfertilized. On the skin, brown lice, sunken into certain bloody spots on the epidermis, probably where the animal scratched itself.
There was a lot of sandy clay, brown on the surface, red deeper down, mixed with limpet shells. In certain spots a veritable shelly limestone was forming, such were the shells there. Otherwise, the island was covered. It must be the Larus dominicanus who’ve been feeding on these limpets. The fresh shells were in little piles of a dozen, the portion of the individual who formed it. [We] stayed until 5 PM. In the evening someone saw a cetacean which seemed enormous but wasn’t it a mirage? Those Daption returned. Killed a cormorant, a Chionis. Arctowski, Cmdr, Dr. brought me marine animals from the VIth Deb[arcation]. Two hummocks.
Thursday, 27 January 1898
I killed a pseudo-albatross which was found on the water this morning. Several still swimming on the water. Further off three large cetaceans jump completely out of the water, and hold their heads up vertically to fall back in a wave of foam. One megapteran appeared much later along the boat. We disembarked on a rookery made of rocky mounds, formed of syenitic rocks. The summits were inhabited by cormorants, the base and the valley between the two by Pygoscelis antarctica. The Phalacrocorax carunculatus used marine algaes to construct their nests, which have low bases completely covered in the youngs’ droppings. Generally there were 2 black-gray young, entirely covered in down. Several of them already had brown feathers. The parents were beside their little ones who tried at each possible moment to shove their beaks into those of their elders, [their] way of demanding feeding. The parents don’t move from their spots, they open their beaks wide and valiantly defend their little ones. The penguins build a semblance of a nest out of little stones and bird bones. We found individuals sitting on 2 eggs, [on] very small chicks covered in light gray down, and [on] brown older chicks, but none with feathers. The maximum [per nest] is two. The penguin droppings are brick red. This must be where the red snow comes from. The parents get on their young and flatten them against the ground when danger approaches. In the cormorant rookery I saw dead young, even in the nests. The odor was infectious and every crack was stuffed with guano mixed with decomposing rocks. There were billions of Podurella on the guano layers. Around noon, numerous swallows, and two megapterans at 2 o’clock.
We entered into Dallman Strait or at least into somewhere that we suppose will relay us to the Bismarck Strait. After a few miles of the interior we stopped for the night. We are surrounded by Megaptera. They are in every direction, I estimate around a hundred of them. They prefer to be along the coasts inside the little bays full of floating ice blocks, but they’re also in the canal, which is free of ice. We also saw a true Balaenoptera with a right dorsal fin. An enormous dark seal appeared on the water, we can see another on an ice block. Birds the size of a pigeon, completely white with black beaks, fly around us (Prion turtur?).
Friday, 28 January 1898
The Megaptera (3) came to play all along the shore around 9 AM. They passed from one coast to the other and sometimes they were no more than 1 m from the shore. They have a length of around 10 to 12 m. Give a single jet of steam which gets to 5 or 6 m. As the jet hit us right in the face, I smelled the very foul breath of the animal. What first appears is the blowhole, then the back below, because the blowhole is situated on a sort of cone (resembling a volcanic cone). The back is rounded until the dorsal fin, which is situated at the same level as the cone. The shape of the dorsal fin varies greatly between the different individuals, but on all it’s formed of an ovoid base surmounted by an appendage facing backwards. This appendage is pointed but more often it’s obtuse. The pectoral is very long, entirely white or with black patches on the dorsal side. The tail is jagged on its posterior edge, generally white on top. The color of the back is black, that of the stomach yellowish. Behind the dorsal fin the body is streamlined and has several very low conical points presenting along the median dorsal line (reminiscent of the same body part in tuna). Some coronules have affixed themselves to the edges of the pectoral [flippers], on the anterior edge of the caudal [flippers], and on the perimeter of the lower lip. On the back were attached yellow-brown filaments (Penella). They turn freely, belly in the air, and swim in reverse seemingly just as easily as facing front. A band of Pygoscelis papua (the same that I took on the 24th of January and which I noted as “king penguin”) were fishing very close to the boat between the megapterans. [We] left to explore the Graham coast of the strait, 11 AM. A big Balaenoptera was pointed out to me, 12 PM. Close to the coast, very large leopards on an iceberg. We descended to a small islet serving as a rest for the cormorants as shown by its white color. Arctowski gave me a report of those mites with gray bodies and red heads and feet which I already saw on the mosses at station I-a. In the evening a band of Daption. The all white pigeons with black beaks. Around 9 PM a big group of Megaptera passed around the ship.
Lecointe saw one among them [that was] all white-yellow with [a] white stomach.
Saturday, 29 January 1898
Many Megaptera since the morning. We turned ourselves around in a small, very nicely sheltered bay surrounded by islands and replete with icebergs. Pseudo-albatrosses. Very many Pygoscelis papua and antarctica in the water. They often lay on their flanks or on their backs, continuously jabbing their beaks into the water and playing around looking remarkably happy. Many Megaptera in the bay. One is completely black on the underside of its tail. Saw a cetacean without a dorsal fin (2 PM). Crenelated humpback with a brown-black posterior region. Not well seen [earlier], these cetaceans did indeed have a dorsal fin, only situated very far back. They are true Balaenoptera reaching 20 m the dorsal fin is pointed and facing backwards. The back is rounded, and the tail presents a sloping lateral expansion from the widest part of the fin around its middle. On a big iceberg were seals and some Larus dominicanus on the tips of the ice. Because of a mirage effect the animals seemed enormous. We debarked, Arctowski, Danco, the Dr., the Cmdr., and me, on a rock about 400 m high, absolutely sheer. Until two tiers up, the rock was carpeted in reindeer lichens, ball mosses and orange lichens. The base was covered in what looked like Ulvae algae. On the rocks there were:
Some Larus dominicanus, old and young. We took a chick who’d fallen into the sea.
Phalacrocorax carunculatus, old and young. The adults feed the young by putting their beaks into their mouths which they open very wide. The adults make a comical effort to deliver the prey they’ve got inside their gullets.
Some Chionis alba, impertinent as always. I also saw some young cormorants dead at the feet of the rocks.
From there we went towards the iceberg with the seals. En route I observed penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica, P. papua), seals, the pseudo-albatrosses, “braun möwe,” white pigeons with black beaks, terns with black heads. On the iceberg, two seals, [who were] worried by our presence at first, then settled themselves back to sleep. We photographed them. One of them rolled onto its flank and scratched itself. The other was laying on its stomach. They wanted to flee, we prevented them by putting ourselves in front. They opened their huge jaws and said “h-h-h.” I killed them. Enormous quantities of blood. Their excrement was as red as blood, like the penguins’ excrement. It is, I think, Ommatophoca. While we were there a penguin came up to see. It was a species as yet unmet.
Sunday, 30 January 1898
We went towards a small bay situated 7–8 miles further south than the one we from yesterday. We arrived there around 11 o’clock in the morning. Enormous quantity of cetaceans (very big Megaptera and Balaenoptera). On the blocks of ice two Ommatophoca, on another a sea leopard. The Dr., the Cmdr, Arctowski, Danco, Amundsen left around 4 PM with two sledges for a long-distance excursion on land.
Monday, 31 January 1898
Around 8 o’clock the whole bay was filled with ice from the glaciers on the coast. Animal life extremely developed. On the ice blocks, one beside the other in a continual mass of birds: a flock of around 200 black headed terns. On the bigger ice blocks some Ommatophoca and sea leopards who weren’t even bothered when the boat passed to touch their block. They all sleep on their backs, their bellies, or their sides, but never do the two species mingle. Whales exhaled between the floating blocks of ice. The slow, stiff Megaptera rises and dive all in one piece while the faster true Balaenoptera curves while diving, while rising, which we’d never seen before, its blowhole and dorsal fin come out at the same time. We rushed towards the bay where we were yesterday morning. The wind forced us to leave it. Rare cetaceans. We spent the night opposite a land with two characteristic glaciers.